Uzbekistan Tour trekking through the mountainsХа, нашел переведенные кем-то мои материалы о Бричмулле и походах по горам. Прилагаю: November 21st, 2009 Former Soviet citizens have heard of the famous songs from Brichmulla Bard - husband Nikitin. However, that settlement are long gone - changed lives, and economic, political and social situation made Brichmulla quite different. Still, a special color and atmosphere of being preserved here. That is still attracting fans of ethnography, history, collectors of folk art. The initiative group of local residents, seeking to create here a civilized hospitality industry, invited experts to explore the potential of the project Brichmulla in this area. It should be noted that tourism in the village now develops spontaneously, and seasonally, service ranges from acceptable to poor. It is difficult to compete with other towns - Chimgan Khumsan, Hodzhikent, Yusufhona, where infrastructure is established for a long time and these places in the advertisement did not need. By the way, there are functioning and major hotels in three or four "stars", and prices there are the same "star" (up to $ 250 per night). Yes, and CBT (Community Based Uzbekistan Tourism - Tourism, based on the local community), there began to develop. Brichmullintsy asked to consider a few were once in the Soviet era popular routes, in particular trekking: In addition, brichmullintsy wanted to revive the bike trails around the deep lake (60 km ring), as well as on horseback: Another form of tourist services - is kayaking and water skiing along the deep lake. At one time, all these paths have been certified, and it ran guests from Siberia, the Far East, the Baltic states and even the Caucasus, where the mountains did not seem surprised. But it took many years, the path became worthless (mudflows, landslides, the impact of flora and fauna), and the need to re-examine the situation. For me the campaign was prepared, entitled "In search of turbans Nasreddin Hodja." Very romantic and promising tourist product. That is, to me, "armchair" tourists initially proposed to spend the night in the house of one of the residents, to try local food, watch a concert, and in the morning to move legs in the mountains, and evaluate whether it can handle the usual tourist path without any special achievements in sports. Hmm, I thought, frankly, did not last long and agreed. Indeed, but why should sit in the hot Tashkent on Saturday and Sunday? And I began to gather. He took, as always, the cap from the sun (the sun in the mountains - it will not light the light of day can be as high roast oven - the sad experience already exists on this point for me), sports clothing and soft Chinese slippers - they comfortable to walk on the trail . Only then I realized that this shoe does not fit for rock climbing - just that, to my horror, we were the second part of mountain trekking. First aid kit, binoculars, digital camera, notebook and pen - are attributes necessary for the trip, the contemplation of the area and description of the route. Uzbek travel blog is here .... Uzbekistan mountain tours About magic Brichmulla Geography. Town Brichmulla located in the southeastern part of the deep lake at an altitude of 960 meters of the western tip Koksu Ridge (Western Tien-Shan). Population - about 5,0 thousand people, ethnic composition: more than 90% of them - ethnic Tajiks. In the settlement, and be fluent in Uzbek and in Russian, and some who know and foreign languages. The distance from Tashkent - 120 miles, paved roads, bus. From the city Gazelkent, which is located 57 kilometers from the capital of Uzbekistan, two ways to get to us: In Brichmulla walking buses (mostly nasty and smelly LIAZ and Lasik), but best of all get their own transport. Communication with Tashkent and other regions - the telephone, via the switch in Gazalkent. Internet available. In some places there is a connection on mobile phones. Television: Antenna catch two programs - Uzbek channel and Russia's ORT. In Soviet times there was a factory for the production of rare land resources, which due to environmental hazards has been closed. But so far the State Committee and Uzhydromet are monitoring the state of the radioactive background and out of the rocks are chemically hazardous substances. Then the plant switched to the processing of diamonds, which are delivered from Yakutia. But he ordered a long time to live ... By the way, in Brichmulla still preserved specialists in diamond cutting, whose qualification was observed at many international exhibitions. Currently, the village is scarce jobs. Population in the summer collecting medicinal plants, fruit trees from the mountain, development of national crafts and folklore. Tourism has evolved from 60-ies, when the tourist centers were built (one of them - "Oltin ombri" - "The Natural" currently in force). But those who failed to get vouchers, do not get upset and "savage" to come here. Local residents are not denied to anyone in a shelter and food. Construction of deep lake in the area Chatkal led to flooding of many villages, but Brichmulla is little affected. However, the water was several recreational areas, residential and industrial buildings, a cemetery. They say that until now, when the waters recede into connection with the drain water to irrigate cotton fields, from clay to slip out the bones and skulls, which are many hundreds of years. Sometimes it remains and objects of archaeological value: ancient coins, arrows, weapons, pottery and much more. Among brichmullintsev there are many, and those who are fond of "black archeology". They are well versed in findings can immediately establish that a product, where and when it was produced, value. But because it smacks of a violation of law, the tourists do not advise you to get involved in this area - have problems at customs, police hack his way into it ... By the way, tell the etymology of the word "Charvak." According to the Sufi tradition, each ishan (so called by the sheikhs) had inherited his inherited territory (this could be a village, mountain or lowland agricultural land), where he recruited his spiritual followers. It was called "Charvak" or "God Chorvoq. In this term was invested the following meanings: "mansion, which is fed ishan, where he, like a gardener caring for the development of their students by removing unnecessary, harmful branches, stimulating useful. That is why the reservoir is called "Charvak" as it was considered a territory that was once "feeding" the descendants of Sheikh Umar Wali Bogustani. Well, once said, "A" and say "B". Chashkap - a "rough terrain, high pass," "stony hills, crisscrossed by numerous deep ravines. Formed from the Kazakh "shatkal" - "birch", ie "River Valley, where many of the birches." Kyrgyz toponimisty believe Chashkap means "hollow between two mountains. It is said that hundreds of years ago this area was a haven for the Zoroastrians - fire worshipers. Pursuers their carriers of Islam could not catch up on such complex plots, and so many centuries the region was far from the Muslim world. Previously Zoroastrians attributed to magicians, sorcerer, warlock, and were afraid of them, claiming that the devil himself covers the evil deeds fire worshipers. History. The territory Brichmulla in the Middle Ages converged mountain road from Chach (Tashkent) in the Seven Rivers, Ferghana Valley Cox, Chatkal. As they say archaeologists, in the period Brichmulla believed the city (though he was different than it is now called), which on three sides by rivers was protected. The steep banks were considered a natural and reliable line of fortification. Archaeologist and historian Server Ashirov said: "On the east side of the city covered the defensive wall, which is preserved in the form of a shaft length of 550 m and height up to 2,5 m. The total area of the town - about 16 hectares" (hereinafter referred to shows from the book B. Choi and S. Ashirova "Western Tien-Shan: A Journey to the roots (guide book), Tashkent, 2004). It turns out that until the twentieth century have Brichmulla existed across the river Chatkal. In the south-western part of the town was marked by a small, inconspicuous path leading to the shore. Here in the rock struck the inhabitants of the tunnel, which allowed during the siege to descend to the water and fill the supply drinking. Residential houses were built of Passover (clay and hay) with the addition of stone walls reach two feet in thickness, and those buildings which were used for defense - a half meters. Home life settlement archaeologists dated VI century AD. This time the power of the Turkic Kaganate, when in the foothills and mountainous areas began to emerge Chirchik settlements and fortified castles. Brichmulla played an important role in the period of a fortress, guarded the way to the mountain, rich in various metals, areas. In IX - X centuries, the settlement grew into the city, surrounded by a wall. In its northern part is a discrete strengthen the garrison. Most of the residents engaged rudokopstvom and processing of metal. Artisans were melted and treated with iron and copper. Archaeologists and geologists have recorded in the mountainous district of Cox and Chatkal ancient workings, related to mining of polymetallic ores. Intensively extracted arsenic, mineral paints, silver-lead ores. For the extraction of iron using enriched hematite pebbles, picking them in the river channels. Detected furnace with bellows to force air during the smelting of iron. Some archaeologists have questioned that the city was located on the site of the present Brichmulla? There is a version that is Ardlankent, the only one mentioned in the tenth century urban valley Chatkal, meanwhile the main archaeological materials related to the settlement XI - XII centuries. But there are opponents of this version, asserting that Ardlankent - Kulbeskan is a city located at the mouth of the Aksu River, an area of 8 hectares. Whatever it was, the city was deserted to the XII century, at the end of XIV - XVI centuries, it revived again, but from time to time slipping away and flourished until the XVIII century. After that he finally abandoned, and only slightly higher then it was laid by a new settlement - Brichmulla (Burcu - tower corner, perhaps from the name of the structure, located in between the mountains). Subsequently, there was the resettlement of residents along the right bank Cox - in the village Yakkatut. Yes, in the vicinity Brichmulla in XVIII - XIX centuries, gold was extracted. The mechanism it was simple: pulled wool carpets, put sand on top and filled with water, which carried away a grain of sand, and gold flakes stuck in Worth carpet. Four people in one day caught 10-30 spool (it 42,7-128,1 grams). In 1860 there began the production of pig iron. Legend. There is another version of the name of the village. "Brichmulla" is translated by some experts as "the duty of the priest." Therefore brichmullintsy told me a legend. Once in this village lived people who wallow in corruption, deception, betrayal, theft, they did not like to work and live only for his own pleasure, not comprehending the spiritual values. So Brichmulla not left in peace various misfortunes - a devastating earthquake, landslide, mudflow that brought death to all living and change the terrain, the epidemic, which kills both humans and animals, as well as peering with bloody purposes foreign invaders. Residents did not know how to get rid of the scourge. One of them was a mullah - a priest. He said: "You have angered God because they do not follow the precepts of the Prophet. Do you think about my stomach, but not the soul. You are cheating the poor and gives nothing to those who suffer. But I'll help you. You must change your lifestyle, and I ask Allah forgive you. " Residents agreed. And then the mullah began to pray, asking God to take pity on the people and to bring to this land long-awaited peace and tranquility. He tried so hard, so desperately pleaded with God that he heard it from incredible heights, agreed: - Once on this so hard I asked the priest, then I can not refuse, I'm going to meet the desires of his earthly servants, - and he stopped on the ground sends a destructive force. Since then Brichmulla come prosperity. The residents were grateful mullah, and he replied: "Do not thank me - it is my duty." In his memory, people called their village as "the duty of the priest." Sometimes, though, brichmullintsy violate his vow, and earthquakes and landslides - a hint that God sees and knows everything. And that people should remember how they asked for the mullah. Current stories. They say that Brichmulla - a favorite place of aliens, they say, here often look "flying saucers" and other celestial kitchen tub. And this highlights the facts, not only in the local tabloids, but also love to tell people themselves Brichmulla. For example, a teacher of Russian Alisher Hamdamov, our guide, tour guide, who was to accompany us in the campaign, after drinking with our spirits, called "Arak" (vodka) swore that he had seen rushing in the sky sort of revolving sausage with a fiery tail. - Maybe it was a missile? - I have doubts. - Some kind of a geodesic? Or kids amused, for example, fireworks on New Year run in the cloud? Frankly, at that moment I fused to alcohol. But the mother herself Alisher reported having seen some object hanging over the mountain on which we were going to go tomorrow morning. - It was something red and fiery, it hung for a long time, and he was noticed by many of my neighbors - she said. - At first I thought it was imagined, but when she heard the cries of amazement from the street, realized that it was reality. However, these phenomena, we often occur that can I say - the old lady waved her hand. My interlocutors shrugged: - They say some species with tourists and geologists have occurred, but no one specifically, we never spoke - it was all under the veil of secrecy. After all Brichmulla was closed institution - factory for the extraction of radioactive materials, and the secret police, the police work so that no "explosive" information flowed nowhere. Maybe they fixed the abduction, unless, of course, themselves no one "stole" who should be the right place. Hm, quite possible ... It is closer to the earth in truth. But I was stunned another bike related to the other world. They say that the mountains are sometimes pulled out some paranormal phenomena: brichmullintsy see a blue haze or a red glow from the places where once the mine is located, as well as to reach them, strange sounds, from which the heart grows cold. Local ufologists claim that the mines are in the world inhabited by spirits. They say that in Soviet times, scientists are faced with unexplained (disabling devices, the mysterious death of some workers, and other crazy stuff) and, fearing the consequences of influence beyond the world (Marxism-Leninism, even forbidden to conduct such studies), were ordered to stop mining ore. Schacht was stoned, but sometimes because of earthquakes occurring cracks and through them creep into our world where all creation. Who will meet on the road, then it shall not sdobrovat. They zataschat it with you, probably, in his afterlife-dyavolsky world. Br-p, as many frightened. Well, no, these mines I'm not much of a walker, let there go amateur thrills. I "fed" a couple of tales, but they tell I'm not going. Because you can not scare stories to frighten readers, and I'm not the creator of movie series "Nightmare on Elm Street" ... Something about the problems of tourism in Brachmulle The campaign nearly broke down owing to a possible ban border. It turns out that after the events of July in Tashkent (30 July in the capital, three suicide bombers set in motion a "suicide belt" in the embassies of the United States and Israel, the Attorney General's Office), the regime stepped up here, reflected in the number of entering Brichmulla and geography of their movement. We decided to follow the route, which does not come into contact with border trails. Incidentally, in Brichmulla having their base, and any trip to the zone of responsibility, to seek agreement with the commander. The fact that it is not always marked with signs prohibiting passage or crossing, and few people, including those living in the village, could not tell where you can walk, but where - no. Sami guards do not say anything, they just scream and shoot. How to guides told us, the soldiers love to put the posts where they want, and then threatening to shoot violated the border strip, which can take place within a hundred meters from their house. Residents have repeatedly argued with them and know how to defend their interests, they say, this is our land, we are born, live and die, and you - designed here for two years, so do not put here. Tourists also willing to get to interesting places, often bribed with vodka - one of tradable goods. By the way, travel to Brichmulla not so simple. Should overcome the police cordon. Submachine look at the tourist gaze so tenacious that even the innocent feel uncomfortable. Post with the barrier stands at the first bridge before entering the Brichmulla and a second bridge - before entering Yakkatut - the next village. Police registered a passport and data machines, are interested, they say, where you are going and why, and then make a decision - to pass or not. Most often miss. They understand that without the tourist town wither away. In pograntsov and mentozavrov (as in Uzbekistan called MUP), the special powers given to rangers and staff of forestry. They walk with arms, but far from smooth-bore, and control to ensure that no one brakonernichal. By poaching understands shoot animals and birds without a license, catching fish, collect plants, as well as felling of valuable and protected plant species. Unfortunately, because of the difficult economic situation people are forced to go on the offense. If there is no coal and gas, then heat the house has wood that is produced from juniper, but the meat is taken out of the mountain boar, goats and ptarmigan. One of the rangers said that recently detained in the mountains of the two Americans and one Russians. True, it was not a border area, but it is not confused guardian of nature. He checked the documents and questioned why no police markings post. Those have supposedly never met them on the road. This is not deceived by an experienced hunter, guessing here that tourists crawled through the "green" (U.S., bish), who handed out all the inspectors. He himself refused, apparently kupitsya for foreign currency and summoned by walkie-talkie pograntsov which, rattling "Kalash", delivered bedolag in part. Well, I do not know how to further formed their fate. Although I do not think that there were special problems, especially the Americans. President of Uzbekistan Islam Karimov respects and fears the United States, trying not to hurt their citizens. Once Brichmulla considered and the area for hunting. But now the residents of the policemen took away the gun, put down the deposit to the local police department. Hunters do pay membership fees for them of weapons, but the last three years they can not see the trunks. Why should we then shotguns, if we can not use them? - They are indignant. And some take out unregistered guns and continue to secretly hunt, and there where no guards results agree and can not be (need to know the trails). Yes, more information for consideration. As I said, Brichmulla - is an area of growing tourism, only located on the border with Kazakhstan. Recently, residents of several villages gathered at the assembly, and the staff of the National Security Service (formerly the KGB, but the methods of work of this organization have not changed with the collapse of the Soviet Union) said that the newcomers might threaten the stability, there are also representatives of extremist and terrorist organizations. - How many of you believe that tourists coming here - this is not a terrorist? - Shouted polkash. - You try to buy the long sumom (the name of the Uzbek currency - approx. AT), forgetting about security, about possible sabotage against the people. Maybe they want to harm you, Uzbekistan! .. Someone was afraid, they say, what if indeed there are people among the visitors to the bad old ideas - who will check? - And decided to spit on tourism. But many residents scoffed: what a terrorist is a matter to the mountain villages? Maybe shahids want to blow over and the dust all Chatkalsky ridge to stop the path of the great future (this is the direction of the republic in his book told the president, Islam Karimov, the storyteller)? Or poison cyanide Charvak reservoir to show the failure of the Uzbek model of development, replicated by the local press as the best in the world? During the years of independence in the village is not observed evidence of terrorism or armed activities of religious fanatics. Most likely, inflamed the general government hysteria (which caused the explosions in Tashkent) with a primitive gyri military decided to carry out preventive measures, even where it seemed not to be done. This happened in the country before - to bring the water after the fire. If you see the secret police in every guest who come here alone, a terrorist, then they should be tested and those of organized visits the resort and recreation area, in particular, hotels, tourist camps, summer camps, including children's health. And suddenly one of them had brought the explosives, which made from fertilizer and aluminum powder (it used shahids during their terrorist acts in April 2004 in Bukhara and Tashkent)? A better - it closed the border and not let-nevypuskat anyone, as did a half-wit moron in neighboring Turkmenistan. Residents have decided not to abandon the tourist business. They continue to set the indoor couch (the bed on which to sleep, sit there), to build hotels and private homes, which for a reasonable price you can relax. Brichmullintsy invest in pools, and boats (catamarans, boats), and roads, and other objects of tourist infrastructure. Because they know all the problems - temporary. But life does not stop. You have to think about the future, not to postpone his plans for later. And this is a special feature of the local residents. We have a problem with the entry, accommodation and leisure solvable. Simply sign up for the management of the village council, which is located behind the second bridge in the village Yakkatut - and walked with a pure heart. Help will protect against encroachments pograntsov, mentozavrov and huntsmen, who love sometimes abused power and authority. And the locals will not give offense, because the tourist - the most desirable people in these places. Hike for a turban: if only the legs are not tired Village Brichmulla - a collection of buildings that are increasingly built from traditional building materials - clay, cane, stone and wood, and from this national color of the most impressionable. Wealthier people are building with bricks, cement and using modern solutions. The houses follow one another like cars. And only lanes share the same "array" of buildings on the other. By the way, on these lanes merrily murmuring small streams, which themselves are looking for a way to the slopes directly into the reservoir, and on them as we splashed through puddles. Irrigation channels (channels) are laid only in some places. Goat, sheep, cows, donkeys, chickens peacefully roam the streets, and the impression that they are the same villagers as brichmullintsy. It seems that the animals themselves as pasture. We are located Alisher Khamdamov, a former teacher of Russian language of the local school. We fed pilaf, fresh salads and cakes. They served as an hour with the addition of brew some local aromatic herbs (no, not cannabis or hemp). Sleep on the street was cool, and so we moved into the house. The sky was so stellar that easily found the Big Dipper. A white stripe in the black cloth showed that above us lay the Milky Way. Oh, sorry that I did not have a telescope ... Power binoculars for astronomical research is clearly not enough. The campaign began at 6.00 am in the morning. The sun had risen, but it was still relatively cool, and we are happy about it. Because fried in its own juices under the withering rays, agree, provides little pleasure. So, we had six: Boris Karpov - an expert on ecotourism, Viktor Tsoi - project coordinator for the Western Tien Shan, I Alisher Taksanov - yours truly, "armchair" tourists and residents Brichmulla - Alisher Khamdamov, his brother and Tolipov Hunter Hamidullah Latypov. The summit, which we were going to actually resembled a turban. But the story of its title promised to tell me as soon as we'll be there. I chuckled. Painfully intrigued me the legend of the hill above the village. The route was as follows: Tootsie (beginning) - Teskay (pass) - Togarcha (mountain tree) - Chalokzor (walnut grove) - Govhona (m-m-m, such as a room for cows) - Canyon Kulas ( "Black Fortress"). The path was simple. At first, followed by conventional asphalt, leaving the territory of the village. On the way, we met people who were interested in where we go, and received a reply, wished a good journey. Some even suggested other routes, they say, there are more interesting places, to which we said that we have chosen this and do not want to change plans. Passed the mosque, golden dome which reflects the dawn. Then we climbed the spiral around the mountain. At the height of hundred meters above the village had to stop to make a break. No, everything was in order. Just wanted to see the terraces, which were located above us, but at the same time and keep a spirit - for these "armchair" tourists as I did such a fast recovery was complicated. Gore was not so from the rock, much of the clay and stone, so under our feet, I felt no particular resistance, and walk on rough terrain require some physical preparedness. However, soon to adjust and feel more confident. Even from this height is a beautiful view. Blue lake, green trees, hats, red-gray-brown rocks and mountains, sun, white clouds ... Ah, the dream of romance, or rather a painter or poet, well, in general, a man with a creative kind. And the air ... Oh, it does not describe. Aroma of flowers tickled the nostrils, the hum of insects lulled. In short, this whole landscape to set up some light feelings. Ahead of us was some movement. I looked through binoculars and almost burst out laughing. The old man and the boy pushed uphill ass, who resisted and did not want to go. That is, he moved his hooves, but without hunting. I remembered the verse, "Where have you seen where ever heard", it describes how the old man and his son carried the hoof. Maybe they went to the harvest - the mountain Alchi. Alcha - it is yellow and sour-sweet fruit of him make jam, compote, jam. Very useful for the organism. For residents Brichmulla - this way of earnings: alchu gladly buy the townspeople and processing sector. Ibid grow wild apples, pears, plums and many other fruits. Here grew mountain tulips, as well as the plant from bulbs which the famine was preparing flour and baked bread. Alisher-aka ( "aka" - brother, the youngest is usually used when referring to senior) told me that during the Great Patriotic War, this bulb has saved many lives. Incidentally, the bread from her cook some brichmullintsy today. Another thing is that this plant has to meet less frequently. But often there are snakes on the road, as warned, I was accompanied, and at once reassured, they say, they are not poisonous. Snakes do not attack unless they are provoked. Interestingly, and in the grass or among rocks to distinguish dangerous "string"? Half an hour later we were on top of the "turban". Below us was located Brichmulla, where people moved about like ants. I saw the village Yakkatut, which appeared due to the fact that part brichmullintsev mastered the new territory. The literal translation - "Lonely mulberry. I was immediately thrown off the legend, they say, long ago, in these parts came to a terrible drought, the water was gone, the mountain peaks had a single gram of ice. All trees that fed the inhabitants of the fruits, dried up. And only one mulberry tree miraculously survived. It turns out he got out long roots of moisture from the ground. And its fruit, he fed the hungry brichmullintsev until the water has not yet appeared, and life is not re-boil around. In honor of the tree residents founded the settlement Yakkatut. According to another version, the dervishes (wanderers, travelers), who went to the north, picked up some disease. Nothing they did not help, sickness swept off their feet, istachivala force. And one young man, looking up from the group in search of food, found a mulberry tree. He ate a couple of fruit and felt the life-giving force. When he felt better, lad scored a hat full mulberry and brought his companions. Dervishes ate natural medicine, and the disease receded. They went further and told encountered on the way to standing alone at the rock the tree, whose fruit has saved their lives. People listened to them and then themselves went to the collection of mulberry fruit. Initially there the pilgrims and shepherds, and soon the tree formed a settlement. Special admiration shining in the light of the sun the blue expanse of water - Lake Charvak. This is an artificial lake formed by merger of three major rivers - Pskem, Cox and Chatkal. Its length - 22 km, width - up to 10 km, depth - up to 140 m. Two billion cubic meters of water keeps the stone-earthen dam. The coastline is 60 km. I saw sailboats and boats, which raced on the water, leaving a foamy track. Somewhere in the distance above the lake had planned to hang and paragliding. Around the lake are a tremendous number of holiday homes, hotels and holiday camps. Their tents set lovers "wild" forms of tourism. Here often picnickers citizens and foreign travelers, for example, we saw a car with diplomatic plates. Incidentally, this region is open for travelers from spring to late fall. Great choice on the complexity of the passes (from 2 to 4 thousand meters) allows you to make walking and horse trekking, rafting on the rivers, pothole, ornithology, botany, and many other active and cognitive forms of recreation and tourism. It turns out that the local fauna includes 44 species of mammals, more than 200 - of birds, 16 reptiles, 2 - amphibians, 20 - fish. Flora of the Tien Shan - is not less than 2,2 thousand species of plants, and the traveler as we move to the alpine crossing five vegetation belts: 700-1200 m - ephemeral, 1200-1500 m --deciduous tree and shrub, up to 2300 m -- juniper, up to 2800 m - kolyuchepodushnichkovuyu, over 2800 m - Alpine. By the way, about 650 species of plants used in medicine, and 400 - in the food industry. - Right here somewhere, according to legend, the famous Nasreddin Afandi lost his turban, - said Alisher Hamdamov, hand showing a huge space, spread out beneath him. He also told me the legend of the name, as he promised before the campaign. Once upon a time there lay the path of the great disturber of peace, jovial and a defender of the underdog, Bukharians Nasreddin Hodja (it was a lot of people know the book Leonid Solovyov's "Tale of Nasreddin Hodja"). He went to the village and saw people crying. - Oh, residents Brichmulla than you are sad? - He asked. - Why is there no joy in this village? What has caught up to attack you? - And why should we rejoice when we owe our Hazratkul bye (bye - a Central Asian feudal lord - approx. AT), a huge sum of money, - weeping, answered residents. - He - the owner of the lake, and we take water in debt, to water our garden, family, escape from the heat. And now the hour of reckoning, but none of us no tango (Tango - a monetary unit of those years - approx. AT). Now Hazratkul sell us into slavery, and the houses and gardens will be put under the hammer in repayment of debt. Nasreddin pitied brichmullintsami and decided to save them. He asked one old man his turban, pulled out of his hurdzhuna (bag) cloak embroidered with stars, put on his spectacles, thrust his armpits book - and he looked like a scientist. Then he borrowed from someone at the time riding a camel and it was a bye. - I - Baghdad known astrologer and physician Gusseyin harp - he introduced himself. - Arrived here with the request of Caliph Umar ibn Muhammad find a magic herb, which grows silver coins. And the stars showed me that the grass grows only here. Bay of surprise, even the gift of speech lost. - How? - He cried, not doubting the veracity of the words of Nasir, for a guest appearance brought impression. - You're not mistaken, the wisest Gusseyin Psaltery? I have never seen this grass here. And brichmullintsy who live here many years, never found the coins, otherwise he would long since paid off the debt. - Oh, my dear bai, I'll show you the grass, if you are willing to forgive the debts of the people Brichmulla, - said Bukhara dodger. - I assure you that silver is so much that you are the property of those poor people at all to anything. Hazratkul thought and agreed. He wrote a receipt, but promised to give her only when personally see the noble metal. - Know Hazratkul that silver can only be seen from this mountain, and only at night - Nasreddin Hodja said, pointing to the top. - Only when the moon comes out from under the ground the grass, which grows coins. Therefore, your residents have never seen them. Who in this time of day climbs in the mountains? .. Such logic is all the more assured greedy bai the reliability of information. At night, they both climbed to the top. - Where is the silver? - Bai asked, looking down. At this moment he saw the flashing at the bottom point. There were so many that bai excitement breath almost stopped. However Hazratkul not know that it Nasreddin said residents take to the streets with small mirrors, which reflect the moonlight. Top reflection could take the shine of silver coins. - Oh-oh, what a lot of them! - Shouted bye, quite oshalev of happiness. - I'll be rich as the Emir of Bukhara! .. No, as the Sultan of Turkey! No, no, as the Shah of Persia! .. - Dear Hazratkul, I fulfilled my promise - showed where the silver, and now follow his, - said Nasreddin, extending his hand. Bai gave him a receipt. - It is necessary to start collecting coins until the moon was gone and the grass again returned to the underground kingdom, - said the fox. - Yes, you're right! And you have time, until brichmullintsy not noticed the silver! - Hazratkul cried, forgetting everything. He rushed down, shouting: - This is my coin, I will gather all of them now, nobody will not! - And crashed, falling from great heights. That's how he has punished himself for his greed. Morning brichmullintsy went upstairs. They are there Nasreddin handed a receipt with the words, so that their land has never ruled vices, and people lived in friendship. - You have a beautiful land, good people, you are free - and it is your wealth that will never change and do not sell - he said. In response, the elder, who gave him a turban, said: - Only the wise can wear this turban, and you, Nasreddin Hodja, has earned that right - he said. Brichmullintsy seized Bukhara bouncer and started shaking him, throwing up. At this point turban flew off the head Nasir ... - Many people have tried to find this turban to get the wisdom that is contained in it, - said Alisher Khamdamov. - And maybe some kind of fortunate tourists, it will fall ... Agree, interesting story. And a journey worthy of the name of a person's name, whose existence is still debatable. Some believe that Nasreddin Hodja - is a collective image, the legend - and no more, while others - such a man really lived, doing good. However, this is not the topic of my story. - And over there occurs Mazarsay - Alisher said, showing me barely rising above the greenery and rocks blue strip of water. Mazar (on-Iranian, Turkic, Arabic) - is a grave, tomb, cemetery. At the origin of the term Arabic word "mazar" - "grave of the holy. Back to the name of the place of the verb "zara" - "go", "visit", "make the visit" and the prefix "ma". "Say" - - a river. Thus Mazarsay - a river, which is located at the cemetery. The names of small streams most prevalent in Central Asia. For example, this Mazarsaya houses the tomb of the great thinker Sheikh Umar Wali Bogustani. However, Alisher aka, told another story of the emergence of the name. It turns out that through the region once held the army of Alexander of Macedon, which is washed from the land, many villages. People who lived in the valley Chatkal not want to take the power of the invader and decided to hide, because the forces to repulse them was not. They fled to the mountains, where the road knew only a few. Alexander came to the valley and saw that the villages are empty and terribly angry. He asked residents to find and punish him for not having greeted with joy the great man. The soldiers rushed to the area, but could find no trace of the fugitives. And climb the mountains - it was pointless and also dangerous. And then it came to one man. - Oh, Alexander the Great, - he said. - I am for the gold coins will show you the path that will lead you and your soldiers to the people who dared to spit on your honor and strength. Alexander took care of the traitor. He led them to the cave, where residents took shelter from the enemies of the valley. Warriors pounce on the poor, but they - to their credit - did not flinch and fought back. Blood rain flooded the stones, the corpses, which hindered the fight, both sides were thrown into the stream flowing beside. One of the defenders was able to calculate the traitor and struck him with an arrow. But he himself died under the blows of the sword. The soldiers of Alexander of Macedon won. They killed people, not sparing children, the elderly and women. The bodies were dumped in the river, which has become a graveyard for all. - Since people call this river Mazarsay - finished these words, his story Alisher Khamdamov. Agree, tragic story and the name of the river rather gloomy. We began to walk on the plateau "turban". Everywhere plants, a name can be found in different kinds of botanical references. Droned and chattered insects, somewhere echoed partridges. Instead we had a huge rock, which, judging by the stories brichmullintsev were grottoes. Here, it turns out, during the Civil War were fought between the Reds and the White Guard detachments. Successes have been variable, but in the end the royal commander retreated. But he managed to hide the gold he had brought from Turkestan general-governorship, and all attempts to locate the Bolsheviks did not lead to positive results. Therefore, in some years, worked here all they search and search mission. I also jump on the rocks for the coins, risking their lives, was not so interesting. Photograph and rested, we went back. Only other way, making a circle: it is a canyon Kulas. The hills gave way to clay stone. Below us stretched the wild primeval rocks, features of which have some of my companions called gynecological comparison. More trees and shrubs come across us on the road. Sometimes we had to hew a path through them. Incidentally, the same beat mountain keys, which allowed us to fill the "kegs" clean water. The farther into the mountains, the more extreme Next trip hardly resemble the fun and easy to walk. I would not call it mountain climbing, and trekking here does not smell. Most likely, this rock-climbing, but it requires a certain physical preparedness and specific skills. Moreover, the equipment and the availability of appropriate footwear. My slipper is overawed by the rocks. They served as skis. I'm always in danger of slipping on the rocks straight into the abyss, and only friends kept me from such "heroism", and not only words but with his hands. Interestingly, my friends, put on the rules, went down without problems. As a joke Alisher-aka, Tajiks - is a natural-born climbers, and transcend them to overcome any terrain. Actually, I - half Tajik, but the genes climber I was informed, apparently, my ancestors lived on the plains of Central Asia. But Victor and Boris rode a mountain goats, and I have a suspicion that the blood transfusion station they poured the blood of the Tajik-climbing. - This area must be ground for the special forces - I muttered, trying to go down to the water. - I do not see here the tourist trail. Or invite climbers here, but not "armchair travelers" like me. Slopes are very steep. To resist, I grabbed for all the plants that germinated on the rocks. I did not notice how his hand got in the hornet's nest .... I passed this part, when behind me off a swarm of insects embittered. - Wait, do not move! - Yelled behind me. But I could not stop, because it was difficult to overcome the force of inertia and even more terrible force of gravity - I was drawn toward the abyss. Wasps rushed to me that it would be very sad for my continued existence, but saved Hamidullah, who was frantically waving a branch, diverting wasps and taking a blow to themselves. However, one creature painfully grabbed me by the ear, from which my pinna swollen, becoming similar to an elephant. My savior threw a branch aside, and the wasp rushed after him. Surprisingly, both managed to deceive the insects. But the hunter was not lucky: a pair of evil yellow-striped creature was bitten on the neck. - Ah, nonsense, will take place - he waved his hand, when I inquired about his condition. - I am often a wasp sting, so accustomed. We continued to move downwards, and soon were at the creek. The water was cold, well, maybe a few degrees above the boiling point of liquid nitrogen. My tooth is falling on the tooth, not for nothing that the stream goes directly from the mountain tops, where the glaciers are melting. Until I have heard the noise of the waterfall. We rushed there. Water dripped from the three-meter height. Jump on the rocks - is a risky business. Previously, there was a staircase, but someone suggested the idea of border guards to remove her, they say, then the terrorists will not be able to pass on this road. Nonsense. If you'd like me to have accompanying you can go through the mountains so that no soldier was not found. But the problems tourists pograntsy done. Had to let the cause of the rope. One of us went down. He found the spear, which was to be an inspiration for others. The procedure of descent was long, and it took a lot of energy. Virtually all wet (but then the sun dried out). Had to balance, because of slipping on wet rocks was just as well get a result, head injury and other parts of the body-even easier. Finally, we have overcome this barrier. But and it was not easy to move. We walked along the stream, jumping from stone to stone. I tell you, it was scary is among the huge rocks. It seemed a little more - and mnogomillionotonnaya Makhina Nature crushed into a pancake. But the nature of the mining site is fascinating. I even photographed over a stone, which once rolled down and stuck in the gap. Finally a halt. It turns out here that our satellites are often relaxed. Moreover, here once spent last evening school graduates brichmullinskogo school. However, it was clear from the remains campfire. - Imagine how cool here: nature, barbecue, tents, music, bonfire - that it was a romance! - Said Alisher-aka. - I then often rested. But, alas, now it is an area under the ban. - How? - I was amazed. - We are in the border strip? I calmed down, they say, the border is farther away, but close pograntsy established post. And no one here is not allowed. - We have to circumvent on the trail! - And I have indicated the road would only be mastered by man passed special mountaineering training. We had to climb almost vertical wall fifty meters. Rock was layered, each layer - this step. But I have lost all desire to follow this path. Somehow in the head through a window scenes from the movie "Cliffhanger", where Sylvester Stallone conquers mountain top, trying to save another. - No, I'm better at gunpoint in Brichmulla than the climb up here! - I said firmly, knowing that this part for me is not resolved. I was even ready to crawl back, taking bites of wasps and snakes climbing the waterfall ... My companions were silent, pondering the situation. They themselves understand that overdid with the trail - it is clearly not for "armchair" tourists. And then we heard voices. Before our eyes there were a guy and a girl. It turns out they were the usual way. - But is there no guards? - Amazed Alisher-aka. - Yes, but we gave them a thousand sums (one dollar - approx. AT), and they let us through, - a guy answered. A stone fell from my soul. So we will not have to climb up, and we will go back again to the stream. And happily, I stamped on the water, humming a song Vysotsky that Gore might be better than just the mountains, which have not yet visited. Of course, descent and further was not a simple one, but it was better than to commit rock climbing in the style a la Sylvester Stallone. Ten minutes later we saw a whole group of young people - tourists, who were discussing whether they should climb up or better to splash in the creek. Judging by their number, trampled by the stones, I came to the conclusion that pograntsov today a rich harvest. We advise guys and girls are not risking mortal bodies, and it is better to surrender to a spiritual cleansing with water ... Someone listened, and some not. However, it was already their personal risk, for which we do not bear responsibility. In the village I came in quite tattered sneakers. The Chinese probably did not expect that they will conquer the mountain tops. Pograntsov we met only in the village. They were on us, apparently, was sneeze. Most likely, the post was removed because peresmenki, and then perhaps we would have to pay for "tickets" to enter the "sensitive zone". A short epilogue To fans of Uzbekistan mountain landscapes and trekking, I advise you to go on the route "Nasreddin Hodja. © Copyright: Алишер Таксанов, 2012.
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