World meeting of food communities

Алишер Таксанов: литературный дневник

Eleven representatives of Uzbekistan were among 5,000 food producers from 120 countries and five continents - farmers, fishermen, shepherds, cheese-makers, traders, and distributors - who convened in Turin, Italy for four days as part of Slow Food's bio-diversity forum Terra Madre: A World Meeting of Food Communities, between October 20-23, 2004.


The forum on protecting food product diversity focused on solutions for sustainable agro-food production techniques and systems that are friendly to the environment, protect the health of consumers, and defend the world heritage of agricultural bio-diversity and gastronomic traditions.
"The forum gathered representatives of Food Communities - residents of small agricultural villages who have preserved their traditional lifestyle and food production techniques," said Riski Rakhimova from the village of Brichmulla near Tashkent. "It was not a meeting of ministers and government officials but a rally of ordinary people - farmers producing original food products that might be interesting for consumers on other continents. Thus, the meeting in Turin demonstrated the possibility of popular diplomacy for strengthening international cooperation at the grass roots level."


Italians were the first to suggest the idea of combining ecology, culture, and food production. According to the forum organizers, they wished to gather food producers so that they could share their experience, establish trade and technological cooperation, and develop a single approach to protecting the environment that is both the place of food production and man's habitat.


"Food products must be grown and processed on territories whose people protect bio-diversity and maintain the balance of resources, both in cattle breeding and agriculture," said Salakhitdin Ashurov from the village of Khumsan, who also represented Uzbekistan at the forum. "These products must also have original national color to be distinguished from other products presented at Terra Madre. Uzbekistan was represented by nine communities from the Ugam-Chatkal national park and the future Nuratau-Kyzylkum biosphere reserve whose food has a specific character due to local natural and climatic conditions. The Uzbek delegation achieved its goal - to present the diversity of Uzbek food to international consumers and provoke their interest."


For four days the Uzbek delegation demonstrated traditional meat, dairy products, and confectionery that won the stomachs of the forum participants. "Latin Americans and Africans devoured with great pleasure our traditional food products. We met businessmen interested in these products' delivery to their countries," said Isbasar Sarsenbayev from the village of Kanimekh, Navoi province.
Uzbekistan was also represented by posters, photographs, and handicraft articles, such as jars, fabrics, and jewelry. The forum visitors could listen to traditional Uzbek music and see the Uzbek delegation members wearing traditional costumes. "We did not expect to attract such attention," said Bakhtiyar Redzhepov, an old man from the village of Chimgan. "Many people showed their interest in Uzbek culture and we told them about our country and life because not all know about Uzbekistan as of yet."


The Terra Madre conference was honored by the presence of the Prince of Wales who spoke of his admiration for the Slow Food movement and his fears over "unsustainable agriculture." In his speech to the conference, the Prince highlighted the huge social and environmental costs of cheap "fast food." His Royal Highness said, "Any analysis of the real costs would have to look at such things as the rise in food-borne illnesses, the advent of new pathogens such as E. Coli 0157, antibiotic resistance from the overuse of drugs in animal feed, extensive water pollution from intensive agricultural systems, and many other factors. These costs are not reflected in the price of fast food, but that doesn't mean that our society isn't paying them."


The forum also included lectures and meetings. The Uzbek representatives gave reports on the specifics of food production based on traditional methods of food processing. Uzbekistan's Nasiba Vafokulova spoke at the session "Oil-bearing crops: ancient and new technologies" and Asror Narziyev reported on "Alternative confectionery." According to Bakhtiyar Redzhepov, many foreign colleagues expressed interest in visiting Uzbekistan.


"Our association not only supports tourists and travelers but also assists local communities in the organization of Community Based Tourism (CBT)," said Victor Tsoi, director of the Tashkent-based Rabat Malik travel association which helped the Uzbek delegation go to the Turin forum. "Tourism is becoming a profitable sphere for applying labor and capital as people have always liked rest and travel. The hospitality industry in Uzbekistan is based on the eastern mentality that highly respects and welcomes guests and can therefore become an alternative to economically depressed industries. Ecological tourism is a key direction. We can and must offer ecological tours to foreign and local tourists. In exchange, visitors will help the development of the local economy and nature preservation."


All members of the Uzbek delegation at Terra Madre were village residents from the Ugam-Chatkal national park (Tashkent province) and the Nuratau-Kyzylkum biosphere reserve (Samarkand, Dzhizak and Navoi provinces). People living in these protected natural areas maintain the ecological balance by conserving natural resources. They use waste-free and ecologically friendly technology in food production. In cattle breeding they maintain an optimal number of livestock that does not threaten the land. In horticulture they grow crops that do not overrun local plants.
Bakhtiyar Ergashev from the village of Paiaryk in the Samarkand province thinks that tourism supports national traditions, handicrafts, and original food preparation techniques.


The organizers of Slow Food's Terra Madre said they have achieved their goals and the forum is likely to become a regular event.
Box The founding father of the Slow Food Movement, Carlo Petrini, recognized in 1986 that the industrialization of food was standardizing taste and leading to the annihilation of thousands of food varieties and flavors. Concerned that the world was quickly reaching a point of no return, he wanted to reach out to consumers and demonstrate to them that they have choices over fast food and supermarket homogenization. He rallied his friends and began to speak out at every available opportunity and soon the movement was born and Slow Food was created. Today the organization is active in 45 countries and has a worldwide membership of over 65,000.


The Italian association was founded in 1986 and the International Movement was founded in Paris in 1989. There is a large Slow Food USA membership, with 5,500 people sharing in the movement nationwide. Slow Food's International Office, situated in Bra (Cuneo), a small town in southern Piedmont, employs about 100 people. They are the hub of a close-knit network of grassroots offices in Italy and abroad, which promote the movement by staging programs and events.



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