Merry stories from the Commander Islands

                Merry stories from the Commander Islands of the   
                Kamchatka region!

Written and translation from Russian to English by Vladimir Sevostianov


               
                “Orange-one- where you’ve been?”
         (small poem about sea otter from the Commander Islands)               
               
Without any doubt the sea otters are absolutely unique and highly sociable marine mammals. They live along the coastal zones at the Northern part of the Pacific Ocean, including the Commander Island.
The field-expedition observation their behavior is very difficult. Even short term of the researching work with them in captivity is very expensive and troublesome business.
But if you like to know about this one more, you have to catch your chance and money. Some grants or another possibility might be pushing you to touch the sea otters closely, as soon as possible!
Luckily I was one of the bunch of people in the World who had been deeply involved to this extremely rare opportunity to live and understand sea otters in almost domestic condition!
For some scientific reasons one of the Russian Academy of science institute got some special program and I was inviting to it like an expert.
We decide to catch few animals on the Commander Islands and move them to our biological station on the Black Sea! 
Such an undertaking itself was sensational event! Huge distance in more than 10 thousand kilometers, completely another climate, a lot of adaptation problems after catching wild animal in captivity, transportation by airplane and so on…
All the more, I’d like to involved in this unusual operation only young and exactly sick individuals, which ones who absolute certainty die from natural reasons without help! Actually it’s become more sophisticated goal for whole program!
In fact, I was going not only to catch some ill sea otters, but also during at least the month treatment them, made those poor animal calm and even a bit domestic or something like that! It was really vital propositions.
In the end of April, when the sea storms near Commander Islands come down, sea otters, especially young ones, continuing to use the tiny part of the shore like shelter for their rest, even in day time. Some sickness otter always sleep on the beach separately.
In addition, those period of spring is time when the growing young getting from his mother for independent life. Well, like in other animal, the young ones always more vulnerable against  severe environment - big waves, cold sea water, low air temperature, deep sea and so on…
As I said, soon some of them getting sick and their protection behavior very weak in reaction against human. In this case, it’s easy to catch them on the shore by scoop net during the day!
I was able to do that about 30 kilometers from Nikolskoe village on the Bering Island.
With small company of the local wildlife officer and helper and good amount of frozen salmon we get there by track.
The Island and road was still covering by thick coat of snow. Even in April, but the winter don’t think to pass away from the Commander and only in sunny day you can see and hearing some spring melody of  drips…
Quickly clean up a small cabin and light the fire in a stove we come to the sea shore and soon note the one young sea otter!
Even after catching he couldn’t struggle. He only moving toss and turn and sometimes emitting very weak cheeps.
In prima facie was clear that he completely bleeding. His orange fur on the body was congregate in clumps. Left eye was covering by cloud and white membrane of leukoma.
The “Orange-one” as I named in my mind our captive was obviously to suffering from the undernourishment and in natural habitat soon die on the beach, become as a prey for polar foxes, seagulls and crows.
First I faster then ever to push him on the comfortable cage and give him bite of frozen salmon.
O my God, how hungry he was and started to eat in big greediness!
I can say, that the chaps and teeth of the see otters are incredibly strong! At the sea, they very easy to crush thick crust of the crabs…Yes, not only crust…As a nut they break out extremely stable a shell of sea mussels and sea urchin!
At the Nature, to catch the fish is really great luck and rare possibility.
To the second piece of fish “ Orange one “ took third and so far we reach by snowmobile our cabin he was eating up almost 3 kilograms of red salmon!
Then he was cleaning yourself a bit and peacefully fall down to asleep. In spite of huge noise from the engine!
In such dreaming condition I took him for a while to our home.
I was speeding, because I need to move my sea otter to Nikolskoe village, more closely to the warm water and the bath, where he can clean and swim. And much more important for sick sea otter, that the warm bath could help him to save the energy and get some good therapy. 
In general, I can say that the main problem to save sea otter in captivity is their unique habit to clean themselves very often and intensive. Even if you have good bath and great natural food, the stick’s together fur, after eating the fish, extremely move their behavior to strong stress and panic behavior! Sometimes they almost in blind fury start to licking dirty hairs and fraying through by anterior legs all over the body.
And if they don’t have enough water for cleaning, it means that the fat from the fish only of spreading out around the body.
So, grooming behavior is vital for the sea otters in the Nature. That’s way during the long evolution period of time their fur getting most pomp, dense and strength. Such a fine fur is great protection for the sea otter against cold water at the Pacific Ocean. Also, it’s a reason why people to put quality and beauty sea otter’s fur to the highest level in the World!
As I mention before, the “Orange-one” was catching in very weak condition and as a young sea otter was more tolerance towards to the people. That’s why he was living with me in first day like the domestic animals. Almost like a dog or cat! When he was not asleep, he was roaming around me from place to place, roll over and awkwardly bending their back. He pulls at my legs. He loves when I touch him or stroke his belly and breast. When the time comes close for a swimming I took him for the fold of skin near the neck or the back limbs. After that he has grown flabby without any fear and all together we come to the bath with warm water. Here, after intensive cleaning and diving sometimes he felt asleep on the surface of the water.
Besides that he get a lot of medicine help. It was a calming agent, vitamins. I mixed them with the piece of fish in feeding time. Some antibiotics and general-health improving medicine was putting him by pricks to the muscle of the back legs.
So, from early morning to day, from last evening to night, slowly and rapidly, our life with
“Orange-one” was running… You see, all the time a lot of troubles! In the morning you have to prepare enough red fish from the refrigerator for whole day, then swimming, general cleaning the cabin and some medical manipulation…
To the late evening I don’t feel my legs and in huge fatigue fall down to asleep to my sleeping bag! Sometimes with  “Orange-one”! Almost with their arms round each other in an embrace, because he loves to be near me like the new mother!
I have to say, that the necessity in the physical contact between mother and young sea otter very high.
The amusing, weak-sighted and whiskered face of my pet always feels in me so amazing mood and condition. In those moments I forget all my tiredness! Gently touching his silk fur I feel in my soul a lot of tenderness and compassion!
Sometimes, when the “Orange –one “ was in playing mood, he cramp my fingers in his teeth, but to feel that he immediately weaken up their force of jaws. To say the truth and remember as a sea otters crushing mussels I was a bit scared, but only in the beginning…Soon I was absolutely sure, that the “ Orange-one” has never ever inflict me any  wounds or another painful damage!
Anyway, the local Aleut’s children like to see our playing activity. For them it was the best prize for their help. All the month long they bring to our house in Nikolskoe village a lot of sea urchins, crabs and mussels, which collected on the shore during the low tide!
Actually, my improvised laboratory was getting in real and funny club for seeing almost tame sea otter, his behavior and story about their ecology! The people simply come and asked me in what we need!
In such a hospitable environment our time was passing like a spark from the fire! For a month the “ Orange-one “ got strong and healthy! It was a pity moment when we started to the long trip.
Well, our itinerary was so complicated! First, we have to reach from the Commander Islands to Kamchatka by small plane. It took for us about 4 hours. Then from plane to plane we have to fly to Moscow during 9 hours. And after short break we have to fly again from Moscow to the Black sea ( about 2 hours ) and finely, by track we have to reach our biological station on the shore of the sea, calls Utrish!
By phone, I call to the air office and order the special flight. For the time being I’s know all pilots and to the next day the plane’s arriving. My friend, who was a pilot on that, called me from the domestic airport and with great impatience and humor said: “Vladimir, you know, I’ve been living on Kamchatka for a long time, but never ever to see an alive sea otter closely! So, if you don’t mind, we leave the plane and came to your house in the village! “ OK! We will be waiting for you!” – reply me…
In expectation the guests I put to the table some candy, a bottle of cognac and cut down some smoke salmon.
In the hurry of preparation, few times I was stumble over the “Orange-one”. Without any excitement and misgiving he peacefully slept on the floor in cozy posture just at the lobby. 
I have to mention, that the pilots at the North always get a lot of popular and respect among the civil people! On the small plane and severe weather condition make up their job very dangerous!
As a rule, all of them have a lot of experience, skill and personal brave. In spite of that, they always look funny and ready to meet some unpredictable situation.
O, here’s some knocking to our door! In second it zoom in and at the sill I so my friends! One of them was captain-pilot!
Instead of saying “ Hello”- he cry with impatience: “ Where I can see your pet, Vladimir?” “Just beside of your foot!”- I said. “Please, have look to my lovely sea otter! He’s absolutely tame!”
In this time, after crying and big noise the “ Orange-one “ get up his heard and open the blind eyes. At the moment our guest is sitting down a front of him and launching his hand to touch the sea otter.
The reaction of the “Orange-one” was quit natural and fast. With angry hissing he bites the stranger at his hand and rush headlong out of another side of the lobby!
Can you imagine that?!
Howl of despair and calls of amazement has been conjugate in one and loud note! I can’t believe in what happened and stay like a statue with a horror. I so only bloody hand of the pilot!
“ What’s a “nice” surprise! What’s wrong? What we have to do? O, my God!”- flushing in my flamed mind…
But on the other second I run to my hurting friend! “Everything will be lovely! Now, at once…Right now I am washing your wound and bandage you hand! And your pain is running away!”- I mumble as a somnambulistic and take poor man to another room. He, after pain shock, in silent and resigned has been following me.
Quickly, by alcohol and manganese solution I clean his wound, then carefully in border to dab by iodine and gently covering all that staff by antibiotic.
But only after first, big glass of cognac, which he drink like a water, the pilot can say some words! It was confused and bondless speech.
The second glass to get the man more optimism! And after the third one he like a joke asks me some compensation! It has to be not less three litres of clear alcohol, than I have to show them all our playing activity with sea otter, including swimming, touching and kissing!
Well, I have no choice and with “Orange-one” we made some funny entertainment! 
Soon, under the cry of astonishment and laugh we almost forget some an unfortunate occurrence.
In gathering all my staff the night came down very fast. In the morning, I feed my sea otter last time on his mother-land – Commander Islands! For low stress with piece of fish I gave him some depressant and put “Orange-one” to the comfortable cage! Last glance around and by car we move to the local airport.
The plane was ready to fly. Just before staring the captain politely asked me to show once again my pet. There are some other people from his team and me kindly laughing of him. We all together were just recalling the funny case which happened with him yesterday. With bandage on the right hand he playfully argues to me, but tenderly named “Orange-one’ who comfortably fall asleep at the cage. At once I covering his temporary shelter by solid fabric and our plane fly up to the sky like a falcon!
Soon under the wing of plane I see Kamchatka’s volcano and high mountains!
After 3 hours of flight we landed at the airport in Petropavlovsk-Kamchtka city. It happened exactly on time and almost beside the huge aircraft, which going to fly to Moscow pretty soon!
My sea otter and me with a big gratitude saying Good Bay to our friends and quickly move to our new transportation. The team of Moscow’s plane was very hospitable too! They have been allowing me regularly to visit my pet into the special section for feed him and give some water and simply make his sense of comfort.
Well, it was only one problem which give me ( Thanks Goodness only me ) some sad mood. At the special section, where was a cool temperature had been stay a few coffins. Well, not a funny neighbours, of course, but life is life!
So, feed the “Orange one” again and come up to my place among the other passenger.
Frankly speaking I was tired and hungry like my pet in his first days in captivity! Luckily it was a dinner time and kind flight attendants give me a lot of tasty meal and even one glass of fine wine.
You know, after all I almost lose my last forces and fall asleep up to the plane landing in Moscow.
My colleagues met us and by car we move to another airport for flying to the Black Sea.
Everything mixed in my brain and body! Everything was so fast in time and environment!
It was the end of May and on the Commander and Kamchatka still cold weather. Up here, in Moscow was about +17 degree C.
My “Orange-one” feels the same! Poor animal! He was coated in finest skin!
Immediately I gave him a few bottles with frozen water and plenty the pieces of ice! It helps a lot!
When we arriving to the Black Sea ( Anapa city ) the temperature outside was more high the in Moscow.
So, without any waiting, I grab the sea otter and by car we drive away from the airport in maximum speed!
At the car, I made the “Orrange-one” some urgent injections against heart-attack and stress.
Anyway, when we reach our biological station my pet was in a very bad condition.
It was almost give me to despair! We both do what we can and give him on the hand I rushing to the big swimming pool with sea water!
And it works like a miracle! In a minute he started to swim and groom himself intensively! So, after pretty long period of coming to consciousness the “Orange-one” fall asleep on the wood raft at the pool.
Me too, but only at the small cabin besides.
Well, everything was fine in reality! We had a lot of fresh mussels and fish! Every day I change the water at the swimming pool. Actually we got a lot of unique scientific facts about behavior of the sea otters and particularly about their sleeping physiology and so on…
The “Orange-one’ was growing up successfully and was a favorite animal for all people around! We live and work together almost two year…Even though it was difficult time in politic and economy situation in Russia.
In our country, in all over the sides have been running “ PERESTROIKA”. Everybody would like to earn more money in different way and in one day the chief of the station told me that soon the “Orange-one’ will be selling to the sea circus.
It was impossible for me to stay with him anymore. I said some last words…and go away with huge nostalgia! What feeling my darling pet? Who knows? It seems to me he was in sadness too!
And time came away. Month by month and after that I catch a Great News!
Finely, for unknown reasons, the “Orange-one” was running from the station to the open Black Sea and has escaped. Luckily he didn’t trust a new staff of the station and choose the freedom and nobody see him after that at all!

                Funny and wandering story.

It seemed that this narrow trail has been indefinitely climbing among the fog…From pass to pass, between mountain’s tops and breakages, chutes and glaciers…And only sometimes it fall down like a snake on the descent to cherished bays and tiny peasant's log huts of the Medniy Island.
The mountains itself not so high, just about 400-700 metres, but it’s completely another world! It’s real world of the mountain’s tundra. So distinct from life along the sea shore of the Commander Islands, where always whirring the breaking waves, where small streams fall down from the cliffs, where some sandy beaches interchange to stone’s  places and rocks!   
And if at the mountains are foggy, that it’s such a clammy smoke wrapping up everything around! In so dense mantle of fog you can almost losing all checkpoints. They have been simply disappearing! One chute looking so similar to another like on top of the mountain to different one.
In such unreal condition, the trail secretly dies away among tableland and traveler immediately lose the right way. The cold wind and rain very quickly break down all protection from even special clothes. Uncertainty and suspense fill irresistible fear and… occur the death!
Unfortunately, the history of those trails on Medniy Islands so full of sadness and pain of the people who was wrecking down during their long itinerary…Like military and civil persons as well.
Sometimes even for me and even at the well known land was near impossible to find out the right path. In this case I lost my way and wandered as a “hedgehog in the fog”.
To say the truth, those unreal oversights don’t adding more enthusiasm in me at all, but had never ever pushed me to panic. I got a fire, boil some tea and drop down my poor body to the sleeping bag until the next morning. Who knows what happed in the future sunrise? Perhaps tomorrow the dense fog will dispersing or you will have to go more carefully and pay more attention to your compass.
Anyway, you always faced some problems and even funny circumstances.

One day, when I lost my trail, trough extremely dense fog, I “fall down” from the  mountain range to the small bay calls “Soldier”s”. This bay was named after loss of life of 3 border guards. Poor soldiers after getting wet just frosted over…

Well, sad history, but I had no time to wait…Made a fire and after big mug of tea with dried crust I started to think about my comfortable night sleeping. I got with me very old sleeping bag, but you didn't feel like lying down on the cold and sharp stones which covering the beach near the sea line.
I think over for a short time and remembered my happy childhood when I sleep sweet into “luxurious” mow of hay, I made a run to shear a lot of dry grass which was plenty around from the past summer. Soon I had a cozy “bed” near my bright fire place and about 3 meters from the Pacific Ocean! So, under the lulling splash of waves I fall asleep in the sleeping bag! In my dream I so unknown and miraculous birds…Some pictures of paradisiacal, blooming gardens from time to time changes to the smell of appetizing food and fine wines! It seems to me that around my bed, under the sound of eastern music the body of young geishas just begins to whirl at the never-ending dances…And in top of the enjoyment, all of a sudden, burst out the thunder!
Beautiful virgins and delicatessen food just disappear! Their gently songs changes to dunes of hot sand from the desert!
Heat, great heart, but not from temptation, excessively burn out my heels and…I open my eyes!
O my God! What I so! Crest of flame surrounded me as a sinner which frying on the pan at the Hades! My luxurious bed made from the dry grasses just burning out like a real fire! The sleeping bag, where I slept, was glow down too! All my clothing had been smoking in all over on my body. I felt strong pain on the sides and legs!
I had no second to get out all those burning staff…In despaired I rush out from the fire and as a “timber” roll down to the sea wave! Only here I was able to tearing out the bag and another burning clothes .
Up to that time, flashing fire was bright like at the pioneer’s night!
After short recovering I was starting to dry some remainder of my clothing and in the next early morning will continuing my trail to the right point.
Soon I find out the proper path among the mountains and in the great mood start wandering towards the local boarder guards station at the Preobragenskoe bay.
 
I was inform that the new staff of the station only heard about me and our scientific expedition, that why my visit to them should be very important for future and friendly connections!
Also, and I have to emphasize that, that in the past and for a years we try to build a very strong friendship with them, because on the unpopulated Island we can always get some urgent help in food, cigarettes and gasoline. In our tern we bring to them from time to time fresh salmon and sometimes read some lectures about nature on the Commander Islands.
Actually, it was a really fruitful cooperation!
But in this day, when I reached the station, all business were running to the wrong way…
The hourly, after checking out me through binocular quickly racing away to the office and soon the whole bunch of military man with weapon like a strong wall crossing my way.
The head officer, young and brave in appearance, was demand my documents and after long term of investigation he silently and with wonder look to my face…
The depressing pause from not asking questions was obviously to long…Then, with big smile, I told them who I am and what happened with me in the last few days.
Slowly, step-by-step, the internal stress among the soldiers getting down and I noticed the some hospitable greeting grin!
“ Oh! You are Vladimir! The chief  of the scientific expedition in our area”-he cry!” We are waiting for you for a long time like a guest! Welcome to my house and have a good rest after so extreme adventure!”
So, all together we come to his home. And only on the lobby the officer carefully asked me: “Vladimir! Would you see of yourself at the mirror today?” I said: “Not at all! I’ve never ever to get such a stupid staff with me in my trail!”
Meanwhile, tactful boss was directing me to magnificent glass in his living room.

O my goodness! Into the deep of mirror I had been seeing dirty-faced tramp with burning out hair on the head! Once, the red beard was destroyed by fire and wisp of hair simply stand on end of my chin!
Anyway, behind my back I heard some timid chuckle… In response, continue to look at the image I pulled some affinity smile on my face. In the beginning it was turned and pitiful…But sound of laugh from officer and soldiers had been increasing constantly and come to my senses I roar with laughter from all my wander soul!

            Misadventures of the small dog “Chapa” at the real art!

Our days, which were rooming among the wild Nature at the Commander Islands, slowly turn out to the calm and purposeful stream of the scientific business. But sometimes it was crushing by infestation of the real Art.
One day in that summer to our expedition camp was appearing a bunch of people like a team of the film makers. They are going to make a film about wild Nature on the Commander and their chief- supervisor was full of flashing plans.
“I’m “blue blood” of our film industry from the God! My talent has been opening all tiny sides of the wild Nature a front of people. It’s plunged them to the high ecstasy”-he cry very often!
And when the expedition vessel almost will be ready go to the sea, he grab up on the pier a small dog. At the moment he catches a genius idea! “He will be our reliable intermediator between people and wild animals!”- he cry loudly and bring him to the ship!
The dog itself was a small and young mixed fox terrier with cocker spaniel! Funny looking and pretty tame to the strange. Probably he doesn’t have the owner and will be happy to share some adventures with so unusual man. And when our ship came out to the sea he gives the dog some simple name in funny sound like a “Chapa”!
 Up here in the big cabin at the vessel the genius supervisor tell all the team that the “Chapa” will be a key element at the film. He has to be first meeting the wild animals a say them about great and hospitable intention of the film makes. In his mind, animals of course have to understand and feel good to the idea and will be agree to the cooperation! All the more for real friendship with elite part of the human being!
In his crazy idea only high art might be such a magic wand, which completely to change the behavior of animals. To push them in condition of friendly mood and glory!
They made a field-camp among the beauty cliffs on the Medniy Islands and without any doubt started to work.
It was the middle of June and some rock ptarmigan just hatching their chicks. On the Islands those birds are totally tame. Really wild birds but they don’t afraid of people and sometimes you can even “touch” them in mountain tundra. It’s always big pleasure to see how the light-yellow  “feather bed” from the chicks are running around his mother and in another 5 minutes again gathering under her warm body and  feathers!
This is amazing picture of tame behavior of rock and huge possibility to reach them, at first gave to “Chapa” brain some sort of shock! At the beginning he almost lose any sense of moving and simply sit down and turn around his head from side to side. Then, quickly recovering, he starts to hunt so cherished and unprotected prey! And only fast reaction from the helper of supervisor has been stopping the tragedy of the bloodshed. The dog was catching in time by his strong hand.
The suggestion procedure was taking a long time. The people have been trying to explain the stupid dog all his disgusting behavior. Finely they began to see like a small heart of “Chapa” getting more Love’s feeling. But only the theory of Love ended and people got a new attempt to make a film, poor doggy in a moment has been forgetting all lessons! As soon as he have a chance he try to grab tiny chicks by teeth and swallow.
To the rest of few days, people and animals were exhausted completely and the genius supervisor orders his helper to stand up near the chicks and waves the knuckle a front of eyes of the dog. In such strong environment “Chapa“was a really scared and can only sniffing the birds.
Well, at the film it looks like a gently and kind gesture or even sentimental feeling!
The speaker, by heart felting voice has been telling to an audience, that the idea of mediation, almost as a second the Coming of the Lord, was in a full success! The nice
and wide smiling face of doggy has been launching to the chicks and they look very Happy! Happy that in all over their life the find out a real friend and protector!

Farther more the mission of the “darling friend Chapa” was running to another way…Just towards to the sea otters!
I have to say that in Nature, especially during the winter time, the sea otters regularly come up from the sea to the shore, because of the stormy and cold water. Up here, on the beach they meet some potential predators as a blue arctic fox. This animal, which live in all over the Commander Islands belong to the family of dogs.

Actually it’s a small beasts simply dart in and out near the sea otters winter’s colony, but on the respectful distance. The sea otter is a much bigger animal and strong in character. Towards to the fox they almost tolerant, but sometimes can attack them with threatening hiss! It’s obvious sign for the fox and he runs away rapidly. In fact, the favorite prey of the fox might be only sick or dead of the sea otters.
So, for the film makers was catching one mature mail of the sea otter, which weighting just about 37 kilograms. We put him to the small bay for the temporary captivity. The bay as natural pool was additionally decorated by sea weeds and sea stars, especially in place where was some cage’s net. Soon, the “prisoner” was in a good adaptation and like a real pet start to take of the piece of fish from the hand of people!
But when the sea otter has been seeing the dog he immediately attacks him as a fox! In curiosity the “Chapa” try to sniffing and be in more tight contact, but quickly understand that the sea otter itself absolutely not the same then a chicks of ptarmigan.

Anyway, after observing the picture of contact between two animals our great supervisor push poor dog into the cage! He was definitely believer that the “Holly Art” should be main element in peaceful wild life! Also he remembers the great device of Art: “Real Art require a lot of prey”!
After all, the camera was working and the dog sitting into the cage on the small stone near the water. The sea otter notes the dog and slowly swim toward to him. In time to do that he funny move his frontal foot as a hospitable invitation to the “mediator” to share the pool with him! The “Chapa” don’t like the idea! He was scared by this beautiful perspective and tried to escape the invitation, but it was too late…It sounds strange but at those moment the poor dog look likes as a shy school - boy, indeed!
In the meanwhile the sea otter come close and grab by teeth the “mediator” on his side and push him to the water. Luckily the Chapa has a dense fur and big fat under the skin! He started to cry so loudly that the people got him from the cage in help! He was not injured at all but was wet, cold and…Happy!
Late on, at the film, especially in the beginning this episode, looks so exciting and natural that the audience frankly crying! They obviously believe that between Chapa and wild animals was building a real friendship! I swear you in a Honour!

                The meek cow.

          
In alternate coming to the frontier post on the Medniy Island I found the staff in desperate mood. “What happened with all of you”-I asked, but all soldiers just nods to the chief!
The officer was young and strong lieutenant, who had already difficult “school” of the Afghanistan war permanently hold the stiff discipline at the post and divulgence of a military secret has been punishing him by penalty.
Anyway, he was my friend and fellow-townsman from South Urals.
 So, without hesitation I ask him about sorrowful situation. Suddenly even for me he said that in the matter of fact the situation is really critical, because their young cow close to death. During the couple of the last days she didn’t give birth!
Well, I have to say in this case, that on the small frontier post like this, the military high command decides to move from Kamchatka to the Medniy Island some domestic animals like a cows, pigs and horses. In their mind it should be helpful for the local staff to have a fresh milk and meat. It was a great idea indeed, but only in favorable environment. The animals need a lot a care, of course, but nobody among the local soldiers have been knowing  - how to do it properly!
Eventually, all those domestic staff getting more wilder and wilder…As a result, one young cow got pregnant too early and for her the first calf can be fatal!
As I was deeply involved in the situation I start to understand how serious all this business. During two days the poor cow just falls down at the tundra and almost loses the forces after unsuccessfully attempts to give birth.   
Well, it was really sad picture!
“A lot of alcohol, glycerol and your help”- I cry positively to the chief and we try to rescue this unhappy cow! He quickly agrees and his order just flying to the station. Soon all medical treatment was delivering to the tundra operating room!
The soldiers move faster! All people get a hope! The caw itself only takes alarm and begins to blink by eyes!

First of all, I take off a clothes and washing carefully the hand by alcohol for disinfection. Then, over that I get a plenty of glycerol for the slipperiness of my arms. The officer stands by on the back of the cow and waits my command!
Bravely, but safely I dip up my hand into the vagina! Slowly move to the deep I touch the head of calf. Well, I feel that his front legs flex incorrectly. It was the main reason why the process was so difficult and dangerous for the young cow. Promptly I have been correcting this defect.
By sharp knife made some tiny cutting of genital elements on the vagina…
I guess the cow was filling the big pain, but never the less she only shudder and breathe loudly. 
Again, I dip up my hand into the vagina and gently grab the calf! During that I cry to the officer to push the poor cow on the side rhythmically. One, two, three! And weak our parturient one has been starting by reflex to abbreviate of womb. In that time I carefully launching the calf outside!,
One else! And again! I’m all of a sweat! Under the pressure of little one the skin near the vagina just crushing with blood and finely new was born baby came to our sinful World! 
At first, I take out his amniotic envelop and clean his nostrils from the blenna. Strikingly he starts to breath and makes some weak movement! I was covering him by warm sheet, but in that moment hearing some cry from my friend-officer! In automatic, to turn round and stay amazingly!

Our “poor” cow with great speed was running away from us and her little one to the tundra!
Well, probably she was so exhausted and scared! But never mind, we got the calf to the barrack and make for him some warm and cozy day nursery. Soon he gets up on his thin legs and tries to find out some milk. Urgently we found the nipple and mixed some dry milk with water into the bottle. 

Soldiers only in the second day will be able to catch the cow, but all our attempts to get the baby closely have unsuccessful! As she has a look at him, she started to bellow, hook and run away!

Luckily, among the soldiers was a fellow from the country side and officer order to him to milking the caw and feeding the calf from the bottle separately.
You can believe me, he makes all this business in the fine way and from his willing we calls the calf “Mishka”!
As for me, I unexpectedly and out of the blue became his godfather!

                The “sharp’s” pottage.

In that year, during the fall, we have been working in the expedition on Bering Island. Our program to study some ecology of the blue arctic foxes had to be lasting for a month. But a track wasn’t picks us up in time. As a result, our expedition supply was finishing! So, we had been waiting and trying to use some natural food around. It was very easy indeed, because the tundra at the fall so abundant of mushrooms. The sea shore so reach of sea weeds and mussels. 
Unfortunately, it was the end of September and dog fish at the creaks, after spawning, all dead!
Well, good diet, but after few days all this staff just stay like a stone in throat! I think about and in the capacity of exception to allow my students to hunt some rock ptarmigans. We’ve never ever got a gun, but in this case instead of it we can use some sticks.
All those process, actually, very difficult to call like a real hunt. The birds are so unsecured and confiding. Also their population was pretty big.
 In the evening of the next day one of the student was able to kill the poor bird. After touching the prey, I begin to cook the delicate meal, personally!
Quickly browse and wash it into the kettle I put all those staff to the fire. Soon, the water in it has been bowling and our hut getting full of wonderful smell of almost real chicken broth!
The young students around just sniffing and jumping with joy, but I was cool off their impatience! The ptarmigan was very old and her meat so rugged! Finely we decide to cook it carefully and leave the cattle on the stove for a night. The people were disappointed but never the less by talking about future meal to “dive” in their sleeping bags. Eventually at the our cabin has been silence fell, which only broke by dreaming sound of bowling cattle and rustles of red mouse on the floor.               

I got up very early and come outside. The fog was hanging up the mountains and ocean. Cold and strong wind has been swinging the fall’s grass along the shore. 

Faster than ever I come back into the house and by semi sleeping condition to go to my place, but all of a sudden to remember about our future king breakfast! I bend over the cattle and amazingly note that the bowling bird has significant bigger size! By picking it I found a huge woolen sock! It was one from the many which drying under the stove.
In fact, he was dropping down and get rightly like a neighbors just to the cattle! I put him back out to the same rope, yawn and fall down to the sleeping bag again.

In the morning we all were getting up by cheerful voice of assistant, which uplifting cry, that the delicate meal already on the table. My hungry staff to be ready at the moment!

The bouillon was on the bowls. The meat of ptarmigan had been in care to cut carefully for each ones.
As for me, I almost forgot about some semi sleeping fact and when one of the student, which in a hurry to swallow first spoon of broth start to cry, I memorize all! Also, in my tern I feel a disgusting bitter in the mouth and in silence look at my friends! In a second, around the table was standing some depressing situation.
To cast the spoon I speed from our house and spit out the soup! The crowd my students with crying to follow me by knocking down everything around! 
It’s almost impossible to show the expression of their faces and exclamations from me!
I tell them anxiously about my night’s opening and my absence of play in any evil design.

Well, slowly we come back to the table. Yes, our fine broth was full of effluvious substances!

Somebody told as a shy boy that may be the meat still edible!? But it was alas and alack!
Our hope was wrong. The meat like a great adsorbent to catch all sock’s aroma and after that was absolutely un edible!

After first testing one of us just remember some joke’s anecdote, as a tiered hunter, in the cabin to get up slowly his puttee, carefully sniff her and breaking down on the floor for the rest of his poor life!

    

                Giving berth for crawl…

OK! So be it! I have been opening to you without any secret and telling about my intimate passion and ineradicable Love to the cats! The passion real and unsatisfied…
Sometimes it seems to me that I’m like a cat has been rooming around, from the one expedition to another, from year to year, by myself and not finding any final attachment. Not to the proper place, not to the real mistress…It’s so difficult indeed and even impossible to push out the rate of Freedom and be involved to another sort of life…Perhaps it might be interesting, but definitely not for me!
The “Perseus” was my field expedition cat with bright and orange fur all around his body! He was pretty big pat and easy for training. It means of course that he was clever, tolerant and good--natured towards to the lovely people! The wildlife among the tundra and sea shore on the Commander Islands was accepting him with great pleasure.
 To be tired of running about fun, in the evening “Perseus” come back to our expedition cabin and get into my sleeping bag. In my point of view he always choose most uncomfortable place for the night resting. Just to the bottom in the bag, where he often catch a lot of hits from my legs during the night! I have to say, that I uneasy man and see many dreams. So, all the night long I like to turn around, suddenly get up and so on…
Anyway, the “Perseus” doesn’t like to change their proper place, even if I move him closely to my head or outside. By refusing the comfort he patiently teardown all inconvenience and only in rare case he discharge the sharp claws.
Well, he has a lot of fresh food every day and his diet can be subject for envious for all cats around the World, indeed! Plenty of salmon and can’s meat, soup and porridge!
Anyway, during the day of my duty at the kitchen he has been picking up some unusual tactics of feeding.
Basically, all those behavior, from me and cat, was like a free attraction among the people from our expedition camp! A specially, when for the dinner I cook the fish cakes from red salmon.
At the moment, when I was busy with frying, he jumping to the kitchen table and stealthily, with nervous eyes and wags tail, come to the plate which was full of fish cakes.
Actually they were very hot, but anyway the cat has been touching to one of them by front leg! In second he feels some burn and start to growl with a huge displeasure!

It was a signal for me and I had to look at him and angry cried! The cat as a criminal has been staying without any attempts to run away. Loudly crying, I got him to the scruff of the neck and went of the sill. The “Perseus” is like a dead animal just over hang in my hand at the full silence.
In continue to cried about unavoidability of punishment I was unwinding this orange crafty devil under my head and throw him out! Just to the high and dense grass near the house!
In silence, in fall flat like a real flying squirrel, the cat has been rushing and dropping to the “jungle”and disappearing…But only for short period of time!
After that, he takes about 15 minutes for a break and come to the kitchen table again! Of course, the wild flying for him was renovated again! 
At the beginning, the tenderhearted students had been blaming to me for such a cruel handling towards to the poor cat, but soon they made sure that the “Perseus” had been modeling such a favorable situation by himself!
 He as if trying to disprove some well-known thesis about - “giving berth for crawl…” and by chance always rushing to fly!

              Surprising adventure of the seaman named Vasia…


I’d like to tell you, my dear friends, that in early spring the young sea otters in about 1 or less year old have been beginning to live in separately way, without any care from their mother - sea otter. During of that period of time they get together on the tiny part of the sea shore even for a day!
               
By known that, we decide to catch them for a tagged. First of all, keeping them by scoop net was much easy, because the young sea otters not heavy and not scared of people. The second reason was our worried to escape the drenching their fur and some factors to disturb a big colony of adult ones. 
But sometimes, at the places which so convenient for operation, the young sea otters lay down on the beach just beside some harbor seals. Actually it’s more careful animals and big enough in weight. Sometimes about 150 or more kilograms! They are not aggressive, but always interrupt our business, because they quickly note some running men and rushing to the sea. The young sea otter simply follow them and we stay without any success! 

In this particularity case, we have to be especially fast and dexterous! In fact, without any thinking has been running at the awkward winter clothes along the slippery stones.
For doing all those fine programs we rented some fish vessel and always among the crew were few sea-men who were interesting to help us voluntarily.

So, as usual, in time the sea man named Vasia become our main helper. He was great partner and fine fellow. After finishing his military services on Kamchatka he decides not get back to the mother-land! Literally he was born in a small village and now he has been breathing by all adventures and discovering!
He was obviously Happy with our early morning activity, with our crazy landing by stormy ocean, when the water and air around so cold!
Soon we love him very much and getting him to our science troop like a permanent and most enthusiastic member! He always has been in front of our operation and in spite of hard job stay in the funny mood and brave condition.
Well! In one very early and cold morning we land on the beach and soon I note some young and sleeping sea otters. Unfortunately, they lay down on the shore so close to the harbor seals.
Shortly I told my friends about situation and asked all to be fast and careful. In the dusk and bustle was really easy to make some confusing things. For example, try to catch the seal instead of otter. In my speech I was especially pay more attention to Vasia!
We all was ready and by my command started to run towards to the animals. I was lucky and soon get young sea otter in my scoop nat. After that I had a look to the others…Everybody was in success, but Vasia had some problem! He was slip and fall down on the beach. It was too late for him, but suddenly he run again and just on the line of wave breaking was able to reach…O, my God, the one of the harbor seal! In the moment he puts his big head to the scoop net, but it didn’t stop the powerful movement of the seal to the sea.
Anyway, Vasia strongly was holding his weapon and soon they both sinking at the cold water and disappear…for a minute!
I can only stay with open mouth, but in another second to rush for his life-saving!
When I was ready to dive into the sea, the Vasia’s head just was raising up from the deep! Beside I noted the swimming scoop net and a bit apart the head of astonishment seal!

Immediately, Vasia was getting out from the water! We all took him our dry clothes and in the big hurry to directed him to our ship. 

After it and for a long time, we all almost “dead” and laughing of that by recollect the picture as a funny capture of the small “sea otter”!
 Our colleagues who had been attended Vasia’s trip to the vessel, would have me believe or not, that this infuriated seal just followed their boat until the board of the ship!

                The dog’s life just has been coming…               
               
On time, when at the Commander Islands don’t have the Nature Preserve I work in the expedition with my favorite animal named Yukon. It was a big and strong, germen Sheppard dog. Actually, he was born in Moscow, but from young age lived among the severe condition of the Northern Pacific and divided with me all hard circumstances of our full of adventures life! Especially during the winter time!

For that time being we were deeply involved to the scientific programs with marine mammals and very often our expedition activity has been touching the business of professional hunters. Most of them were Aleutian men. During the winter they catch plenty of Arctic Blue Fox by traps.

One of the hunters was my best friend named Sergey Skripnikov. He was born on the Commander Islands among the Aleutian community and as I met him, he was open-hearted, kind, full of fun and strong fellow, indeed! He also has two nick names which have sound like Bull and Mister Violin!

In one winter season we had been worked with him side by side! In the cabin to share, as people saying, the food and roof for more two months. 
Everyday Sergey go along the sea line to check out his traps. In my tern I go to another direction for observing winter behavior of the sea otters and harbor seals. The Yukon was staying near the hut.
So, day by day, our life has been running around some job, evening talking, reading the books, playing of checkers and studying the Aleutian language.

As usual, at the stove crackles the firewood. The light from the kerosene lamp was cozy and peaceful. Our big friend Yukon has been dreaming on the floor…
But in one evening we both noted some strange changes in his behavior. At first the dog settled on his proper place on the floor, but soon started anxiously turning, energetically biting the skin and even sometimes loudly crying!
Well, we both were sure that somehow he had been catching the ticks!
Those tiny insects like a natural parasite are very abundant at the fur of the foxes.
When the hunter gets to dry the fox skin at the warm room they leave the fur and fall down to the floor.
In cold environment the ticks has been getting anabiotic condition and waiting some new prey. It might be a man or a dog. Immediately after that they bite painfully, but from the smooth skin of man they easily wash out by hot water and alcohol.
It’s completely opposite situation with a dog! They have so dense fur and soon, like I heard from the local hunters, the dogs simply lose their brain from unendurable pain!

Meanwhile, we mark the situation and quickly decide to make some urgent arrangements for Help to our poor dog!
Unfortunately, we didn’t have any special medicine and suggested to use in this case some washing powder called “News” and plenty of hot water!

“As I say, as I make”! At the moment our stove was full of wood. All kitchen staff like a pots and kettles was foul of snow and got to the fire. The hiss steam from the melt snow just was pushing up to the ceiling. In the cabin become hotter and hotter like in real sauna! Even the kerosene lamps protestingly had been blinked!   

Anyway, Sergey and me, trough out all our clothes and in the darkness to grab our poor dog! The Yukon was scared enough, but as a devoted one allowed to the fate!
The big dog was fall down to the floor roughly and the hot water generously begun to flow on his body! At the same time we mixed it with washing powder!
The washing process got more and more intensively speed. The frighten dog had been howling and twitching!
Can you imagine the scene like that?! If somebody to have a chance to watch this picture through the window of our hut, soon he starts to feel in overfull horror and sure that a two naked man, at the night going to kill the dog!
After 40 minutes, almost lose all our force we somehow to finish such unusual business and Yukon slowly crawl away to his place.
A little by little some passions die away. In the widely open door has been coming a breath of cool air. We both just fall down to our sleeping bag with hope, that the next morning will be much better then evening, which was so similar to the belly of hell!   

Well, in early morning the Yukon without any hesitation get me up by his head! I note that his eyes are full of fun and we both quickly come to the open air. Like a Happy dog he starts to run around and clean by himself at the fresh snow…and, O, my God! What I sow! Slowly, from the common dog, he turns into blotched hyena!
Some part of his fine fur just throws out from his body after our washing Help!
Thanks Goodness, during the month or so he will be able to recovering without any of visible consequences!

                Boundary workdays…
 
               
Population of the Arctic Blue foxes on the Commander islands perhaps most unusual one from all aggregations of this animal, which widely spread out at the Northern Pacific and Polar Ocean.               
According to the long term of determination, it’s one of the ancient among all indeed! Also, during the evolution time its build two most of the biggest subspecies of Arctic fox in the World.

That’s why some scientists, especially from Moscow State University, have been spending a lot of time on the Commander Islands by studying their behavior and ecology.
The head of those expeditions was my friend named Misha. Actually, he has been a great clever fellow and real expedition leader!
Like a fine zoologist, Misha loves the object of his research and all people around,   freely or not, infects by his enthusiasm!
In truth, the preservation of this unique animal has been having a very fundamental value.

Well…During some field expedition years we work closely and together come along the mountain trails on the Medniy Island.
Sometimes it was not easy indeed! On one day we catch a dense fog and cold rain. It takes a lot of time to find out the proper trail to the Preobragenskoe bay.
Finely, we got it, but felt tired and hungry.

Anyway, when you know about the warm house and mug of hot tea nearby, you always concentrate some last forces and run…
Soon we leave the sheet of fog behind us and start to see some buildings of the boundary station and line of sea shore. In fact the line was so small and on both sides was cutting by impervious cliffs. 
In reality, this small part of the beach was unique borderland for the watcher, who during the day time got some attentive safe-keeping activity.
The young soldier with gun on the back slowly measure by pacing almost as a swing of the pendulum.
Now and then he stops and takes some little stones and by lazy gestures throw out it to the sea.
I believe in my mind that he also sings some popular song… “Above the Island only the fog…And I was funny to throw out the small stones from far away…”
Well, to say the truth, he was bored to death, but not in this moment…Literally he was fallowing by male of Arctic fox, which try to safe their family border! As usual, the fox come close the man with barking and howling. Sometimes he even strives to bite his jackboot!      
“ Misha, you see, what the amazing picture!”-I cry! “Full of harmony of the Wild Nature and Man, indeed! You note how tolerant the soldier towards to the uneasy animal! It’s truly Love and nothing else…”…But I didn’t have time to finish my emotional monolog, as a soldier turn around and kicked the fox! It was really strong knock and poor animal just fly up and fall down to beach in almost dead condition!
Once again, the soldier had a look at him and come away.
As in command, we both were running to the throw down poor fox with loud cry! The catch sight of us, the young guard was pretty scared and got the gun. Anyway, we don’t stopping! Only me, with hand up and smile, cry to the soldier that we are not the enemy! We are Russian scientists and friends of the fox! 

Luckily the bite of leg wasn’t fatal for the fox. Slowly he gets up and runs away!
Meanwhile, Misha has been arguing the soldier for the uncivilized behavior towards to the animals! Drop down the gun, he was shy and peaceful. He was telling us that the situation lake that very often occur up here and his kicking only for the protection himself indeed! Without that the fox was able to follow him for many hours! “You know,- he  said - our nerves just unexposed! Sorry for that!” 
Thanks Goodness, that it business was ending by Happy feelings, but on the next day Mish and I have been reading for the local staff some lectures about wildlife, about the unique Nature on the Commander Islands!
The soldiers carefully had been heard of the two bearded crank - biologist and nod by heads in agreement.

                Shelter near the ocean…

During the long passing I have been completely tired and feel thirsty. My body of the end of the trail just getting crushes in step by step. And only one thing in my mind constantly sounded…One else and after crossing the small cape I will see a small shelter which was build near the ocean many years ago by my friend!
“Faster, faster…”- urge by myself in impatience! Up there, just ahead I will definitely have a lot of sweet tea and may be some food too! To say the truth in my expedition trails at south-east of Bering Island I had been truly exhausted! 
Well, at the back pack you couldn’t take many staff and of the end of expedition you always use some natural recourse, as a fish in the streams, sea weeds and mussels from a tidal zone and the rest of dried crusts! You know, especially crusts really looks like as a remains of prehistoric petrification!

Closer to the fall all creaks around full of the humpback salmon, but they died already after spawning. With the trout much more trouble…At the mouth of the rivers plenty of flatfish! Basically, near impossible to get died from hungry condition, but each piece of fishes had been staying at the throat like a stone! Finely you have been starting to dream about huge, hot dish of borsch and big slice of fresh bread!
But, for now, I want to drink! Drink, drink, drink…A lot of tea! With and without sugar! By small swallows and unstopping current! 
On the Bering Island a lot of different kind of stream, but you are not be able to drink even some fresh water, because of the infection.
After long rooming by sea shore my flask with boiling water was empty.
Anyway, each step just stuck in the mud at the putrefy sea weeds. Actually it’s time for full tide, but no forces to choose more convenient way…Forward only forward…

O, here it is! The shelter just has been staying lonely in the tiny bay and promising all treasure from this World: warm, rest and protection!
Immediately I fall down the back pack near the entrance hall and by hungry eyes start to find some proper meal. O, my God! Such a luxurious assortment, indeed!
Here are some caps with grain. There are some macaroni and dry tea! All those staff was hanging on the wall against mouse and rats.
But the main gladness…was a whole bank of canned borsch!!! 
Quickly, outside I make a fire for boiling water and tea. Into the cabin, at the stove has been cracking the wood and huge pan on it looks very impressive and promising!
But right away for me better to staying closely to the boiling kettle. I made some first roasting gulps…It’s almost impossible to say what the beatitude you feel! By sitting on the sill of the shelter I have been pressing to the mug as a life-giving spring!
And a front of my face was opening the Pacific Ocean near Commander Islands!
At the middle of the fall, he was crystalline and even a bit icy in color. Blue and good-looking! A bit lazy and tender! It seems that he has a rest just before angry and strong winter’s storms!
My relaxed and almost spiritual meditation was interrupted by sound the pan on the stove. Good sign and to the boil water I put the canned borsch!
In the second all shelter was full of amazing aroma! It gets me a lot of appetite hopes.
The instruction on the can says that my borsch have to ready after 30 minutes. It’s obviously too long waiting for hungry man. The 15 ones should be OK, I think!    
By poll of exe I crush down my last dried crust and all this hash mixed with hot red-brown soup. The spoon works. Hot drops fall down to my knees. Burning lips diffuses in blessed smile. On the forehead some sweat after first excitement and additional heat!
After first attack to the borsch I made some break but soon continued to eat. Eats many and for a long time! For the period when my belly getting conglobates, when my brain just stop thinking, when my fingers tired to hold the spoon!
In fact, I put off from the table and fall down to the boarded desk as an amorphous substance. In each cells of my body I heard some melody of ecstasy form fantastic taste of the borsch! Actually the condition was so close to nirvana!
Well! You see how wonderful has been living at the World and how simply might be solved all philosophical problems by spoilt civilization!

That’s a real life, when you for a month rooming around wild bays and mountains and then test some moments of blessedness…Let’s try my friend! I’m sure you will be luckily one! 

Eventually, outside getting darker and darker…It’s time to go to sleep to the sleeping bag!
My mysterious pan with some remains of borsch I put to the cold lobby.
Thinking before sleeping I lend an attentive ear to mouse, which rustling on the floor. For them this cute shelter is most native and darling place in all over the World too!
Their lulling bustle and lazy sighs of the ocean outside has been getting to me asleep.., but all of the sudden, such the dreaming idyll’s disturbing by alarm signal. I started hearing some tinkle metal!
Through the dream I understand that it was alarming the cover of my pan at the lobby. Exactly that somebody with big impatiens was trying to move it and got my borsch! Soon I recognize from sound of cheeps that it was red wild mouse, which plenty to live around and into the shelter.
Eventually, I heard that clearly, their effort has been in a great success! The heavy cover was moving and finely I hear some splash from fall down the tiny thief to the soup. His unexpected and scared voice was changing by rhythmic gurgling from swim at the borsch lake!
Well! It was ended my rest immediately! I got up and took the kerosene lamp.
What I see at the lobby? The cover was moving for sure, but in the pan somebody keep silence. I take up the pan and have a look more attentively. Among the ball of cabbage, some potato and beet I see so funny picture!

The young mouse was hold as a life buoy some bit of vegetable. All his face and moustache was sticking around by tiny pieces of fat!
Under the light of lamp his eyes like small beads have been flashing. Well, the scene was amusing so much that I laughing from all my soul!

Carefully, by two fingers I took him by the scruff of the neck and putted him out on the floor.

In the minute, the young one has a narrow escape and begins to clean himself. Soon he finishes such an important business and for the rest of adventure at parting gives some thankful squeak to me!
I was fully amazing and lucky too!
Before continue my sleep I was thinking about falsity of some unexpected meetings and fates. Basically, how less we need to stay Happy and alive, when we feel kind relation between Nature and Man! It’s only one right way for all of us on our huge Shelter named Planet of Earth!
In the morning I boil my borsch again and eat with big appetite! With great memorizing of my night and tiny friend!
And get under way further…

                «At the garden or at the vegetable garden…”         

The first wild place on the Commander Islands was Northwestern cape at the Bering Island.
Up there you will easily find out one of the breading fur seals rockery. The small cliffs around are nesting territory of the marine birds. The harbor seals love to lie down on the reef. Among the aggregation of fur seals very often to stay some giant marine mammal –
- Northern Sea Lions!   
Our adventures on the shore had been occurring immediately! Just about 1 kilometer from the rockery of fur seals we find out the big carcass somehow dead marine animal. We were the students at that time and were not familiar with ecology of the seals. Exactly to think that it completely the dead one we started to touch him by small sticks.
All of a sudden, we see something incredible! Almost like in Holly Book…: “At that day some mute men begin to cry out and blind ones start to see clearly!”
The dead creature, as if by magic has been roaring and standing up! Actually it was a sleepily bull of the northern fur seal!   
We had been escape to touch him as we can! I, personally, just fall down to the beach and quickly crawl among the stones. The other students were run away!
Late on, we understand that the bull simply have a good rest after strong struggle at the breeding animals on the rockery and after disturbing his peaceful dream was scared too and run to the ocean! Luckily the sea water line was so close.

Basically, the Northwestern cape was gathering sometimes strange and pretty abundant group of scientist. One of them was deeply involved for studying some parasitic diseases of the fur seals. For that purpose they keep in the cages a lot of white laboratory mouse!

Some tourists or even newspersons from far away always pay more attention to those small creatures. They asked the scientists about and one of them in serious expression on the face told them almost fantastic story…about mouse and seals!
Such as that the unique experiment in sensation way! For getting fur seals more fat the scientists dieting them on the shore by alive mouse… “But why the mouse only white color?” – somebody ask in curiosity… “Well, you know, it just for easy catching them among the grass and stones by seals!”

Someone was ready to catch the idea like a naked truth! It was easy to believe, because in Russian the fur seals sound like a sea cats!

Anyway, during the last time this cape was occupied by sea otters too. This amazing animal indeed and I had been observing their wonderful behavior.

Well, nothing to say more as the place as an animals are really unique and not far from the village. Just about 25 kilometers by ground road!
But it was only one lack! Up there was very difficult to find out some clear water for drinking.
As a rule, to the August all snowfields on the low slopes have been melting. In that term, some small streamlets were disappearing too.   
Well, after that you have to dig down some well among the swamp beaches grassland. The water from this kind of pit has been in disgusting smell and dirty. By glance, into it you easily see a lot of nematodes and real cocktail from protozoa animals!

In my case, I was additionally unlucky man, because just near buy the well I sow the dead Arctic blue fox. Good sign I think than!
This kind of water you have to boil carefully before drinking, but never the less, even strong coffee was like the sickening dishwater!
So, on the second day of my staying up there, I felt some fatal changes into my body and huge protest of kidneys! I decide that it’s really foolish to tempt the fate and faster than ever to finish my job.
Anyway, the almost narcotic nauseate was growing up hour by hour and at the evening, when I come to the breading rockery of the fur seal, among the dense grass in side noted some white and bright flash! It was so obviously that I couldn’t believe in as my hallucinogenic delirious.

At first, I think it might be the polar owl, which for some important reasons leave the mountain tundra and fly closely to the sea shore, but then among the grasses I sight the tiny trail just straight ahead to the ocean!
The sick and infuriated brain doesn’t have me choose and I hurried up towards to the mystery!

I come to the grass like in real jungle and soon almost reached the sea line. The last steps and I was curdling from unsuspected picture!
On the beach, not far from me I see the big, white colored, horned he- goat! His Devil’s face with shaking beard and turning eyes obviously invited me to the belly of Hell! The other 3 smaller goats with their spiteful bleat only added this imagine perspective.
Suddenly the he-goat made a few steps towards to me…His thin tongue desiredly was trembling on the lips…The sharp teeth chattering…From the long and stick out penis begin to flow some hot stream of urina!
At the Horror I begin to wave my hands and fall down to the grass. “Here there are!”- thinking my brain! “It’s punishment from the God for the all my sins, indeed!”
But without battle I don’t surrender a front of force from darkness! In the moment I got up and loudly crying as a frightened fur seal before to run towards to the Satan!

And he was come away with all his hell’s suite!
Anyway, my luck was untimely. They was stopping about 10 meters from me and carefully starting to examine my wild figure…
In the past I heard about domestic goats at the village, but here…pretty far from the people…near the natural habitat of the wild marine mammal..! Well, this meeting for me was really more than unexpected!
For that time being I came to the colony of the fur seals. It was the part of the rockery which occupied by young animals for the rest. Those young creatures are about 100 kilogram in weight very tolerant to the people. Without big noise you can pass them side by side. Some awareness ones got calmly to make way for you. Sometimes they only sniff and turn the head. 
So, soon I noted like the goats follow me even among the fur seals!
It seems to me that the seals might be scared them, but it’s doesn’t matter…The seals only with more curiosity and a puzzled look to the unusual caravan!
For me it was unusual scene too! The white goats among the wild animals on the shore of the Northern part of the Pacific Ocean! It was truly some fantastic picture from some unreal World!
A friend of mine has been seeing us from the top of the hill. “At first”-he said-“I think that some rain deer follow man among the fur seals! It was hard to believe, but late on I recognize you! Well, after that I was sure, that everything running in natural and amazing way around! Especially up here, on the Commander Islands!

                He left me ...


One blustery, early morning, chilled to the bone and shivering at dusk, trying to keep myself warm, with a large backpack behind my back, I came to the place of our meeting.  Even from afar, I heard the impatient and infrequent yelping and barking of the dogs in their harnesses. I saw the mountain-high loaded sled and my new friend, a local veteran of the Commander Islands.

He had a simple Russian name, “Vanya!”  Yet, his surname sounded truly romantically: Falcon!   Extremely tall and powerful, with a permanent smile on his broad face, he personified the character of a true and irrepressible adventurer of the North, possessed of the inexhaustible imagination of a prankster combined with extreme energy, and excitability. 

At the same time, he had a phenomenal mind and played chess, as well as God himself! Enthusiastically, he also wrote remarkable and naive verses and was an inveterate hunter, the last one in the village of Nikolskoye, to mush a team of sled dogs.

As tall as a good calf, they were shaggy and savage to each other and yet fully obedient to man.  Soon, having grown entirely accustomed to them, I would unhesitatingly fling myself into the thick of their fights, unafraid to be bitten in their hoarsely-roaring scramble.  This I had to do quite often, because while running, one of the dogs would inevitably become entangled in the harness and fall into the snow. She would continue to be dragged, until her neighbors began to bite the annoying anchor, leading to a new fight.

-“Vanya, but how shall we go, where shall we seat on the way?” – Timidly I asked, staring with a doubtful eye at the up-to-the-chin-loaded sledge. “After all, there are only nine dogs! – The sled is so heavy, and our first run to the Buyan harbor, must be no less than forty kilometers!”

-“Everything’s going to be f*cking awesome, I mean, OK, Vladimir!” - thundered Ivan, confidently!

Relying on his experience, I took a place in the back of the sled. Vanya pulled out the «ostol» and shouted: “ Lapka,  let’s go forward!” – and the dogs raced! Slowly the sled went faster and faster. That’s the village leaved behind. Some well known valley of streams just flickered back to back.
It seems to me that we went a bit heavy. I jumped out from the sled and tried to help dogs at the deep – snow distance, but it wasn’t necessarily indeed! Slowly, but steady, not less than 10 kilometers per hour, the sled moving to extinction.   
The opposite term to stories by Djek London, where the leader of the team of dogs were most strong one, our Lapka was old, but very wise! He knows all commands and also chooses the right way by himself. That’s why he draws the sled in semi force range, runs easy and often haves a look around.   

“Lapka, le…le…le…le…le…”- cry Vanya, and the dog tamely was turning the sled to the left. “ Ra…ra…ra…ra…f.ing hell” – and the dog was turning to the right!
Stand up, forward – that’s all simple commands of the Commander dogteam drive.
Also, I have to say, that the other dogs, without any doubt, all are great workaholics. Of course, they clearly understand some privileges position of “Lapka” and were badly upsetting.
That’s why we try to save him from their aggressive behavior. Especially of the end of the trail near the night staying cabins! First of all, when your reach the shelter you have to stop the sled and then quickly run to “Lapka” and get him free. After that he immediately disappears into the open door! The other dogs can only revengefully barking! Well, if they have any opportunity to hold him even for a little while they tear the poor leader for death!   
Nevertheless, one by one, the tired dog were free too. Separately they were taking by chain to the poling. It was very important business, because during the feeding time they can bite each other in strong competition.
From the box of feeding supply we took out some special dried humpback salmon call “chikna” by Aleutian language. By big pieces we drop its to the hungry dogs. Instead of water they have been gulping the fresh snow! 
Anyway, little by little, some vanity of vanities and big noise calm down! The dogs peacefully roll themselves up into the balls on the surface of the snow and fall a deep sleeping until the next morning.

You know, how long the winter’s evening could be? Well, but not for us for sure and during that time we talk a lot about everything! Sometimes the snow storm has been closing our way even for a few days. Then, all our conversations had been turned to the dramatic show! I Love it very much!


Can you imagine that??? Some poor room into the cabin, which was stingily lightening by oil lamp… Some cracking wood into the small stove…Some damped, but even uncontrollable howling of the stormy wind…Sometimes get through across the old shelter…And all around the World was covering by snow!
My dearest friend Vanya, such a huge and break down the shade have been dash around the room and with great enthusiastic had declaimed to me some poems about history of heroic people, who in the past was discovering the Northern part of the Pacific Ocean, about beautiful Nature on the Commander Islands, which he was really thinly feeling and love!
Or his endless questions about science…Biology of the ocean…Eventually it ended his graduation at the university, indeed!
Actually he was simple fellow and his professor told in one day, that the Vanya almost good student, but a very passion person. “You know”- he complained to me – “during some examinations he becomes so unrestrained in answers and often used some folk’s idioms!”   

Well, for that time being, Vanya and I, have been building a lot a projects about different kind of expeditions. Without any tiredness was roaming around the Island! Sometimes felt down with them to the icy chasms and even slept with dog under the snow and strong storms…

There are ineradicable thirst of adventures, inexorable fate, natural feelings of involvement and real friendship had been organic parts of our unity! Even though we were different by education, by practical occupation and social status…
In any situation all things have been running towards to the good resolutions!

In one day, after long waiting under the snow storm we got a sunny weather. We quickly gathering our staff and after a long rest our dogs were full of forces. The sled was almost flying on the thin crust of ice over snow. The ocean was calm and in low tide condition. Just before 10 kilometers to the cabin for our night staying, Vanya decide to go by walk along the sea shore for keeping some garbage. Among it you will easily find out some wood barrels, plastic can, fine bottle, jogging shoes from Japan and many other useful things.
I leave him for that and soon reach the shelter. After feeding the dog I make some tea and eat a bit. As I said, the day was really sunny and after all I sit down on the terrace steps with big mug on my hand and waiting…

Eventually I noted Vanya, but a bit far away. By binoculars I sow on his back something big and pretty heavy luggage. “Well, he found a good staff”- I guess!

Soon, hard breathing and red faced friend was beside me. On his shoulders I see absolutely new and made from fine wood the barrel!
“What a wonderful finding”- he smiles happily! “ You know, I drag it along the beach about 5 kilometers! You see, it will be very useful at the household, indeed!”
He had sniff loudly and with huge relief bring down the barrel near his feet.
Unfortunately, to the evening some melt snow was transform to the strong ice and the barrel with a big cracks just crush to the separate staves!

It was happened in a moment that we both only look at that change with open mouth.  Almost synchronously with his yell of despair I started to laugh! Poor Vanya was so loud to cry that the scared dog began to howl!

By crying he lightens the soul and finely he accepts the situation like a real man, but all the evening, we both, all of sudden, started to laugh and joked about “loosing good barrel”!

To say the truth, at the village he feels by himself not comfortable, indeed! So boring and crowd environment. It’s one of the reasons why he likes to joke of the average men and tell them some unbelievable stories! And most of the people under those circumstances preferred to stay apart from him.
Actually it pretty ordinary situation in all over the places, indeed!
Anyway, he had been continued to live…But it seem to me that his soul always try to find something miracle… Even the life is life and sometimes she gets their constant amend…
In one early morning my telephone rang…His wife by horrible voice told me that Vanya was die… At the last night… By some stupid accident…
Well, his soul always try to find something miracle…
Where she is? This tiny and roaming piece…In what kind of direction…In what kind of measurement…And when we will meet again!

                Horse’s sketch.

Snow- white, at the beginning of his birthday, studhorse named “Falcon” was a great “warhorse”! Was a real match for his owner and my friend called Valeriy Cristichenko. Never the less, among the people Valeriy has been better known under nickname as a “Christ”. The “Christ” at time shows completely opposite style in ordinary life, then his Holly prefiguration. Sometimes, especially in drunk condition he was like a Devil, cruel and destructive. The huge physical force as kettle has been boiling in his big breast and hands!
But the soul was kind and full of lovely songs…And very often it was sad melody…Anyway it was open towards for the friendship to sympathetic of him people…Women and Men!
The touching the soul always not easy business in our life, but if you will be able to do that in frank way, at the village will be really impossible to find out among all people the man as a best friend, indeed! The man who has been for you fall-safe and ruthful!
Well, in one day, I persuade “Christ” to give me his horse for a month or so…Actually I have a plan in my privet expedition to the south part of the Bering Island for observing marine mammal, birds and foxes.
All alerted suggestions from my friend were pushed by me just away. Even his fresh story, when he gives the “Falcon” to one strange man. And what happened then! After 4 days the “Falcon” word for word, had been leaded this man exactly to the hospital!
At night, the sly and artful studhorse, was be able to escape the horse lock and in freely to carry out the man, but in visual contact towards the village. It takes for them more 2 days and more 100 kilometers behind!
Absolutely existed and drive mad organism of human was crushing completely! Good that it finely occurred near the village. In urgent way the man was putting to the local operational table with dangerous diagnosis of appendicitis!
The “Christ” and “Falcon” anyway was very lucky to meet each other again.
Thanks Goodness, that everything was ending fine! Both local fellows regularly had been visit the recovering man at the hospital. “Falcon, Falcon…What did you do”- he whispered in eyes to the horse…“ Yes, it so! As I told you before…Fool head’s man! ”- cry loudly in answer “Christ”! During those dialogs the “Falcon” only carefully spins of ears, uneasily step over from one leg to another and turn head to the field!
“Well, Vladimir!”- address me some words of encouragement,- “ How sick all my old wounds! Please, safe your lag when you will be riding from bites! Take care of yourself more when you will be leading the horse by snell. He also can bite your back or arm! Always try to stay a front of him. Not to the back! In case he can savage you! At a trot, he suddenly can stopping and you might fly away from the saddle as from catapult! At a gallop, he be able to dash aside! But if you have been insisting…Take it!!! Your head will be un building!” – the “Christ” finish to say!
So, after his “hearten” monolog I in great difficulties to put my expedition staff on back of  “Falcon” and sit at saddle!

The “Falcon” in outward appearance was calm, but soon he quickly to showed his real bad vice.
In walk allure he curves the neck and catch by teeth the end of my rubber boot, which upright from the stapes! I jerk the leg! From painful wound I was safe, because have a big size of boot and strong whip! The “Falcon” pushes himself to the side, a bit sit and suddenly fall down to the ground! I could hardly escape my legs and hold the tight rein.
By jar hitch of the rein I had been force him to stand up!
About 15 minutes have been trying to explain the “Falcon” that it was a disgusting behavior! With amazing eyes I look at my ragged boot. Like breaking news, I throw off it and roughly poke to face of horse. “Our trail just began! Ahead many, many kilometers of way by ocean shore line, but my footwear just for nothing!”- I cry in deep disturbance!
But the “Falcon” stays calmly and has a look to another direction. All the more, I read at his eyes that soon he will be able to get me back some another and more painful surprise!
Anyway, as a sign for future peaceful life I give him some sugar. He waits a bit and starts to eat those delicacies! 

We came farther…I am in careful mood and try to see all movements of the horse! In time to time his head again turn to my side…I even see his grin teeth…But in this case and with loud cry like a “ Indian people among the wild prairie “ I strongly knock his face and bite him by whip and the picture like that was repeating once and a while!
To say the truth, soon, periods between his aggressive behavior getting longer and longer! Actually, to the end of our first trail we both achieve some special situation as the armed neutrality!
At night, I tether a horse on the long thick string. It was enough good grasses and close to the stream. Carefully, by wet grass, I started to clean his body. I have been felt, that the “Falcon” likes it! 

Slowly, day after day, we both deep into the working rhythm! Our long crossing trails were not easy. Sometimes I felt sorry of him and often leaded “Falcon” in such the caravan by rope.
You know, the company of horse or other domestic animal always creates some great feelings of growing unity and complicity! It hard to explain but almost in invisible way touching the alive creatures at the activity to find something as a Love towards to Life and huge impression of Freedom! It almost allows to us to see the eternity and discovery the World!

All together, it enveloping our souls by humble and welcome veil!
With great pleasure I was commented my new friend all what we sow during our voyage…Some interesting behavior of birds and foxes. The lying on the stones some harbor seals and swimming on the surface of the ocean sea otters. The running on the slopes of mountain tundra groups of rain deer.   

The Nature has been excitedly boiling up in all over the places and creating your eternal song of Life! Well, we both, “Falcon” and I were as the participants of this miracle of God!
From warm stable and stuffy room, from hangover mumble and forced passions we both, as at seem to me, had been condemned for the constant moving and in natural way to include some tiny things to the history of our Planet of Earth!
And how it was happy moment, when in the morning you can hearing the voice of the Pacific ocean and crackling the wood at the stove. Also, you can hearing the damped roar of horse and his gently lips on the broaching heel of hand!

Finely, we both were in Freedom and “Falcon” didn’t try to struggle and run away any more!

Up and down, during the day and night, under the rain and sun…The kaleidoscope of developments uncontrollable has been rolling the handle of Time!
For the time being we reach the Vacksel cape. In fact, old cabin up here was crushing by time and strong wind and for the night we can stay only on the beach near the fire. Well, but to go to the shore from mountain was not easy. Actually it was a steep slope with snowfield and slide-rocks.
It was getting darker! The cold rain fall down and magical fog almost destroy the contours of the hills.
It seems to me that I chose the right way and lead the “Falcon” by the bridle. He wasn’t grounding and in the first steps on the sharp snow his leg starting slippery. He made a lot of force for keeping balance but it was too late!
He falls down on the side. Undercutting his heavy body I fall down too. We both in leaps and bounds just were flying to the Hell! As far as I remember, I only strongly to hold my friend - horse!

Suddenly our fast moving was ended. As though get wake I recognize the staying “Falcon” and myself just laying between his legs! Slowly in mind because my head and body were completely fool of pain! Anyway, I hooked his front leg and got up. “Falcon, Falcon…”-  was mumbling  my tongue…The hand lead to his head and he turn the neck towards to me!    

After surviving excitements and wet sleeping near the fire, my lips were completely covering by herpes. And when we reach the village I even not be able to tell “Christ” about our adventures! The lips were totally thick and full of scab!
I only quickly can say Good-bye to the “Falcon”…I had to go faster…On another Island my colleagues just waiting for me!

                “At the Senegal, brothers, to the Senegal…”

Our first meeting was take place in the narrow corridors at the All Union Research Institute of Oceanography in Moscow, where I hold plenty of projects for the expeditions work at the Commander Islands!   
My colleagues told me about him as a fine aquatic biologist, which took a lot of knowledge from the famous scientist in Russia academician Zenckevich and great researcher of the World Ocean ecosystem Jack Iv Kusto! 

During the first conversation he was expressly gloomy and hasty under some special and fast rhytms of Moscow’s life! He has a beautiful wife, which are the subject for adoration among all people in our institute, indeed! Furthermore, he has a good personal car and excellent speak in French! So, it was a real successful man and among all he recently came back to Russia from Senegal!

So, it’s exact picture above, how our friendship began and how it lasted in time among many adventures on the Commander Islands, solidarity in ideas and truly kind feelings to each other.

Already, during the first expedition, all of us, I mean young scientists and students almost fall in Love to him like a funny man. His good character was a bit salt, but with great sense of humour. We all admire of his spreading knowledge, amazing skills as a diver, who without any fear can work into the deep and extremely cold Northern part of the Pacific Ocean.

There is nor shadow of arrogance and even tiny advantage neither… Humorous of laugh and accurate epigrams always was decorated by virtuosic pictures, which definitely caricatured our life! The simply inventing some parody had been fun treasure of any our company or friendly party indeed!
Well, his name was Kostya Sidorov! He also was full of scientific ideas in any time and excellent cook some sea food…And much more important was really easy going fellow towards to the any kind of folks.
So, as you can see in our expedition he was indispensable and lovely person!

For the last few years, after intensive expedition work, we both can stay somewhere at the small shelter near the ocean.
In that beautiful time he was deeply diving to the creation…There are some scientific ideas, funny sketches and… feedstock! You know, the mountain tundra on the Bering Island almost each fall season was completely full of a good mushroom.

In that particularly case our shelter was looking as a real purveying centre!
At the stove, all the day long, was some hot fire. On the table, under ceiling  and pans, had been cutting, drying and boiling a lot of mushroom as a present for friends and family in Moscow.

Basically, Kostia has a lot of habit for the high, African temperature at the Senegal and after cold diving into the Northern part of Pacific Ocean he much more love any hot environment. The sudor like the streams were running down along his strong body!
As for me, it was very hard time indeed! I prefer to stay out of the cabin or naked inside! 
So, the drying efforts of mushroom at the cold, foggy and wet climate on the Commander Islands require a lot of wood and constant fire at the stove. Anyway, when the Kostia, as a died man, was falling asleep I got up secretly and widely open the door in our shelter. Soon, in the dark room has been bursting the fresh wind from the ocean and I asleep too.

But sooner or later, Kostia started to freeze into the sleeping bag! In his tern he got awake and lighted the fire again! O my God, the pictures of hot Senegal desert had been appeared in our dreams forever!   

You can imagine how it was repeating night by night!
Luckily, our expedition vessel was too late and we finished all supply of sugar and my tobacco.
In that reason too, I insistently suggest to Kostia to swim by small boat to another bay. To say the truth the weather was a bit stormy and only my threat to do that alone crush down his resistance. He was absolutely shore that I was able to it without any doubt.

Meanwhile we fill our staff to the boat and ready for a new adventure.
Kstia set down on the nosepiece of the boat with huge bucket between his legs. The bucket was full of boiled without salt of mushroom. He supposes to get them ready at the expedition vessel and in a grand manner entertain all sea men.
Against the expectation, my Russian engine called as a “Vortex” began to work in one push!
Generally, the Peregrebnaya Bay, which we going to leave is well protected, at the both sides by the high cliffs. It has a pretty narrow exit, where those cliffs created some dangerous and big reefs. Up there, even on the calm ocean, always crush down the huge waves! 

In the high speed I came outside the exit and immediately to catch the first wave’s bump. We cover of the cascade splash! Another wave, carelessly, was throwing up our poor boat and in a seconds drooping down to the ridge of new one! There was the evil crack! The nose of the boat was falling down and opening us towards to the element!
I desperately try to turn the boat back. Inside to the bay, but overload and breaking down boat very bad in steer the wheel, indeed! In fact, it as a canned cap had been fluttered at the surface of the ocean!
Soon, another wave was flooding the boat, including Kostia, me and engine!

All the staff was swim away, but Kostia strongly to hold the bucket near his breast.
If, as a rule, our Russian engine was stop, we were condemning for sure! But, it had been continuing to work properly and less by less, our poor boat creeping into the bay.

So, in those almost under water condition we reached the save’s shore!
By swear and remember all Holly persons in one time, Kostia, had been damned that hour, when he was involved in such a risky venture. By heart, he cry that always be sure in my disorderliness and never ever ahead to do the same! Anyway, all his cries were mixed with funny jokes and playful vanity!
Mainly the covenant of bucket was safe, but totally full of salt sea water. It was a pity indeed, but Kostia said that the mushroom after swim was taking amazing and spicy quality! 

In next day our expedition vessel was appearing. Some dry staff soon was getting on board. The bucket was passing to the caboose…
The sea men were delighted! At the companion cabin Kastia’s story again and again interrupted by thunderous laughter!
During the dinner the mushroom was eating fast and appetite. Kostia with master, after drinking a bit alcohol, had been sitting on the top of beatitude!
Nevertheless the awkward situation occurred after dinner. Probably, mixed sea water with mushroom was taste, but also had another powerful quality…The ruthless action of the purgative!

You know, at the small vessel like ours only one tiny latrine! In quick way was building from the canvas some additional toilets on the open desk. From the first-aid kit was die away all supply of manganese crystals and activated carbons! Someone greedily gulp down the very strong tea!
However, the ship had been continued to hold the right course and difficult to say, when all jokes might be ended!